Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Ament & Dalke, 1965 |
Page Views: | 5,095 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Mar 16, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Although this climb is just the first couple pitches of Sooberb, it is worth listing separately. By skipping the ~10 feet of 5.10c on the last pitch, the moderate climber has another great option in this area. Pitches 1 and 3 are forgettable, but pitch 2 is great.
Go past The Unsaid area, past Long John Wall, and start where the trail meets the wall with several terraces, down and to the right of Side Wall bench. You could skip the first pitch by scrambling on top of the bench.
P1. Ascend a 10' finger crack to a large, right-facing corner. Easy slab climbing leads to a bulge just below the "Sick Flake" and a large tree. Belay at rap rings on a slung tree. 5.7.
P2. Surmount the Sick Flake by either chimneying inside (easiest, and the only way to get pro) or laybacking the edge (great moves). Once on top of the chimney, climb the steep, left-facing corner. The holds are mostly huge, but it's steep and can give you a pump. Belay at another set of bolted rap rings below a tree in the rotten band. 5.8.
P3. Move slightly left, just above the tree and climb moderate cracks over an overlap. Choose a path left across a nice face with large features and easy moves, but not much pro. Belay on a huge ledge in the next rotten band. The final pitch of Sooberb will be just above you - a 5.10c overhanging crack. 5.7.
Go past The Unsaid area, past Long John Wall, and start where the trail meets the wall with several terraces, down and to the right of Side Wall bench. You could skip the first pitch by scrambling on top of the bench.
P1. Ascend a 10' finger crack to a large, right-facing corner. Easy slab climbing leads to a bulge just below the "Sick Flake" and a large tree. Belay at rap rings on a slung tree. 5.7.
P2. Surmount the Sick Flake by either chimneying inside (easiest, and the only way to get pro) or laybacking the edge (great moves). Once on top of the chimney, climb the steep, left-facing corner. The holds are mostly huge, but it's steep and can give you a pump. Belay at another set of bolted rap rings below a tree in the rotten band. 5.8.
P3. Move slightly left, just above the tree and climb moderate cracks over an overlap. Choose a path left across a nice face with large features and easy moves, but not much pro. Belay on a huge ledge in the next rotten band. The final pitch of Sooberb will be just above you - a 5.10c overhanging crack. 5.7.
Descent
Easily walk 20' down the rotten band to the small trees. Rappel 80' from rings to the end of P2. With a 60m rope, you can rap from here all the way to the Side Wall bench (barely - careful!) and scramble to the base of the climb. Or you can do two rappels straight down the route right to your packs.
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