A fantastic sport route up a bulging wall in a remote and wild-feeling area. Were the climb a little longer or more sustained it would deserve three stars.
Fabulous moves up a steep wall with a short crux and fun plate climbing in an exposed position that makes the route seem taller than it is.
Given 5.11c in most guides, this seemed to be soft for the rating. Do this and then do Yellow Brick Road or Wicked Witchcraft and see if you don't agree.
5 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")
|By Vernon Stiefel|
Nov 9, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My partner and I climbed this route today and agree that the rating is soft for 11c at Josh. However, there are some powerful moves off the deck to the 2nd bolt and between the 4th and 5th bolts. This route seems comparable to other steep 11b bolt protected climbs in the Park such as Uncle Remus, Oyster Delicacy, Genghis Khan, and Shakin Like Milk.
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maybe being tall helps, maybe I was so amped at how easy this .11c felt, but I didn't think it was 5.11. Could be that there's no "route finding", just pull down hard and reach up. Uncle Remus and Ghengis Khan both felt subtantially harder.
Dec 1, 2003
I agree, certainly the softest .11 I have done in the park.