Song of the Dodo 5.12a R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Jack and Pam Roberts, 1998. |
| Fixed Hardware: | 3 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Past the mental crux...physical crux coming up! N...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is the bolted route that can be toproped from the rappel off the Upper Ramp to the left of Vertigo. I only heard through word of mouth that it was put up by Jack Roberts, I am not sure if this is true. The Vertigo raps are probably the most popular way off the Upper Ramp, and I am willing to bet many have toproped this route from the last rappel anchor. It starts with a right-facing dihedral with a hard .11b move halfway up. The upper portion of the route climbs a gently overhanging bolted headwall that goes at sequential .12a climbing. This is a fun route to toprope, it would be a very scary route to lead.
Protection The upper portion of this route has bolts, the lower 5.11 dihedral has horrible pro. I was told it was toproped extensively before it was led.
Irina Overeem at the first hard move.
| Irina Overeem at the overhanging headwall. The ne...
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| Comments on Song of the Dodo |
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By Kristo torgersen Aug 1, 2001
| You hit the head on the nail, Pat: scary lead, great toprope, sequential 12a moves. Since it falls right under the rap route it makes a great toprope, as long as there aren't people rapping down above you. |
By Anonymous Coward Apr 10, 2002
| Maybe it's just me, but the moves in the dihedral down low seemed more like 10-, and the headwall more like mid-12. This seems odd since I'm a boulderer, so theoretically the bottom should have felt harder than the top. Either way, that move into the sidepull with your left is pretty cool, and the slopey topout is painfully greasy...mmmm.... |
By Jimmy Farrell From: Lexington, KY Sep 16, 2006 rating: 5.12a R
| WOW! What an amazing route. Definitely could be a little scary through the 11b section, but if you can commit to the moves, it flows so nice! The gear is scarce, but it gave me enough courage to make the moves. (It also helped that I did it a couple of times on TR first.) After passing the mental crux, the movement through the 12a section is one of the coolest sequences I've ever done. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...as a TR or as a very fulfilling lead (if you are comfortable with a committing runout). |
By Scott Bennett From: Colorado, etc Sep 18, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| Great route, good fun to toprope, and I don't think it's as scary a lead as the other comments would indicate. The lower section in the dihedral is not even close to 11b, probably more like mid-10, and when you're at the crux, there a bomber small nut and blue Alien just a few feet below you. You can also get more gear during the lower crux, though it's a little hard to place. It is more runout finishing up the dihedral section, but the climbing is probably 8 or 9. I think that if you have any chance at getting the top, true crux in the bolted section, then the bottom half shouldn't be a big deal. -Scott |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 20, 2008
| I can agree with that. I've never had any problem on the bottom, but have never been able to free the crux up high, though I can usually work out 12a. |
By Chris Archer Nov 2, 2009
| GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing. |
By kevin murphy Jan 13, 2010
| Was the bolt pulled because it lies right below a rap station? Great route, I vote the bolt goes back in. Granted the lower part is a bit serious, and it felt all of 5.11. I'm guessing theres an efficient way to do the bottom, and a not so efficient way. I'd be happy to help put the bolt in. Weather has been puuurrrrfffeeeccccttt. |
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Mar 10, 2010
| Has the last bolt been replaced yet? |
By Josh Janes Mar 10, 2010
| As of last week, the bolt was still missing. The fall from the crux would be pretty bad without that bolt. The hole and sleeve (I think) were still there.... |
By Monty From: Morrison, Co Jun 1, 2011
| The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement. |
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