Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Hardwear Drifter 3 DP Tent

$284.99 25% off

$213.74

at AlsSports

   more...
Sugoi RS Bike Bib Short - Women's

$159.99 49% off

$80.96

at AlsSports

187    more...
C.A.M.P. Neve Ice Axe

$79.95 26% off

$58.94

at E-OMC

12    more...
Sterling - Marathon 9mm Half Rope

$185.00 24% off

$139.97

at GearX

30    more...
Metolius Belay Glove

$39.95 25% off

$29.96

at Backcountry

   more...
Anasazi LV Teal Climbing Shoes - Women's

$154.95 25% off

$116.21

at CampSaver

11    more...
Five Ten Team 5.10 Climbing Shoe - 2012 Model

$159.95 29% off

$111.97

at Backcountry

1    more...
MSR Flex 4 Pot Set

$129.99 35% off

$83.35

at AlsSports

23    more...
Sugoi Midzero Running Tight - Men's

$99.99 20% off

$79.99

at AlsSports

   more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland 
Apple Strudel 
Art Of Slappiness, The 
Art's Spar 
Blueberry Boodle 
Body Tremors 
Chockstone Chimney 
Consummation Nite 
Daedalus 
Deadpoint 
Dirty Deed 
Doub-Griffith 
E.L.100 
Electric Aunt Jemima 
Exhibit A 
Exit Stage Left 
Flashdance 
Fresh Garbage 
Grand Giraffe 
Icarus 
Ignition 
Italian Arete 
King Cobra, The 
Magic Bus 
Magic Carpet Ride 
Magic Route 
Mellow Fellow 
Mellow Yellow 
Memory Lapse 
Mickey Mouse Nailup 
Much Slater (left variation) 
Neptune's Bible 
Neurosis 
One and a Half Hours of Power 
Over the Shoulder Stuff 
Parting Shot 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land 
Pigeon Crack 
Psycho Pigeon 
Psychosis 
Reaper 
Rocky Raccoon 
Roll Over Rover 
Rover 
Ruper 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe 
Short Arm Inspection. 
Smoke & Mirrors 
Song of the Dodo 
South Face of Tower One 
Super Slab 
Superspar 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
Vertigo 
West Arete (of T1), The 
Yellow Fellow 
Yellow Spur, The 
Ytrid Deed, The 

Song of the Dodo 

5.12a R

   
1,144 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
FA: Jack and Pam Roberts, 1998.
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Past the mental crux...physical crux coming up! N...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the bolted route that can be toproped from the rappel off the Upper Ramp to the left of Vertigo. I only heard through word of mouth that it was put up by Jack Roberts, I am not sure if this is true. The Vertigo raps are probably the most popular way off the Upper Ramp, and I am willing to bet many have toproped this route from the last rappel anchor. It starts with a right-facing dihedral with a hard .11b move halfway up. The upper portion of the route climbs a gently overhanging bolted headwall that goes at sequential .12a climbing. This is a fun route to toprope, it would be a very scary route to lead.


Protection 

The upper portion of this route has bolts, the lower 5.11 dihedral has horrible pro. I was told it was toproped extensively before it was led.



Photos of Song of the Dodo Slideshow Add Photo
Irina Overeem at the first hard move.

Irina Overeem at the first hard move.

Irina Overeem at the overhanging headwall.  The next moves are very difficult.

Irina Overeem at the overhanging headwall. The ne...


Comments on Song of the Dodo Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 1, 2011
By Kristo torgersen
Aug 1, 2001

You hit the head on the nail, Pat: scary lead, great toprope, sequential 12a moves. Since it falls right under the rap route it makes a great toprope, as long as there aren't people rapping down above you.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 10, 2002

Maybe it's just me, but the moves in the dihedral down low seemed more like 10-, and the headwall more like mid-12. This seems odd since I'm a boulderer, so theoretically the bottom should have felt harder than the top. Either way, that move into the sidepull with your left is pretty cool, and the slopey topout is painfully greasy...mmmm....

By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Sep 16, 2006
rating: 5.12a R

WOW! What an amazing route. Definitely could be a little scary through the 11b section, but if you can commit to the moves, it flows so nice! The gear is scarce, but it gave me enough courage to make the moves. (It also helped that I did it a couple of times on TR first.) After passing the mental crux, the movement through the 12a section is one of the coolest sequences I've ever done. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...as a TR or as a very fulfilling lead (if you are comfortable with a committing runout).

By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Sep 18, 2008
rating: 5.12a

Great route, good fun to toprope, and I don't think it's as scary a lead as the other comments would indicate. The lower section in the dihedral is not even close to 11b, probably more like mid-10, and when you're at the crux, there a bomber small nut and blue Alien just a few feet below you. You can also get more gear during the lower crux, though it's a little hard to place. It is more runout finishing up the dihedral section, but the climbing is probably 8 or 9.
I think that if you have any chance at getting the top, true crux in the bolted section, then the bottom half shouldn't be a big deal.
-Scott

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2008

I can agree with that. I've never had any problem on the bottom, but have never been able to free the crux up high, though I can usually work out 12a.

By Chris Archer
Nov 2, 2009

GEAR ALERT. As of 1 November 2009, the top bolt is missing.

By kevin murphy
Jan 13, 2010

Was the bolt pulled because it lies right below a rap station? Great route, I vote the bolt goes back in. Granted the lower part is a bit serious, and it felt all of 5.11. I'm guessing theres an efficient way to do the bottom, and a not so efficient way. I'd be happy to help put the bolt in. Weather has been puuurrrrfffeeeccccttt.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2010

Has the last bolt been replaced yet?

By Josh Janes
Mar 10, 2010

As of last week, the bolt was still missing. The fall from the crux would be pretty bad without that bolt. The hole and sleeve (I think) were still there....

By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Jun 1, 2011

The missing bolt has been replaced. Thanks to ACE for allowing this replacement.