Song Of Stone 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Francis Hayden and Thomas Perkins, 10/2002 |
| Season: | Gets mostly shade |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Reachy move on Song of Stone
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Probably the best route on the wall. While the book refers to this as a sustained crack, most of the climbing is face climbing. Still, crux jams may make this a lot easier if you know how.
Location This is the 3rd bolt line on the wall from the left side.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The crux is well protected by the second to last bolt.
Side pull clip on Song of Stone
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| Comments on Song Of Stone |
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By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Jan 7, 2011 rating: 5.11a
| Has anyone ever led this on gear? Although I'm grateful for this route being bolted, I wish I had brought my rack for this route... but on the other hand hauling a trad rack overseas for just this route would have been futile. |
By manuel rangel Feb 23, 2012
| Definitely easier for me since I like crack. Still, the crack up high on the route is harder to jam cause it gets wider and has thin lips; pull on the edge and you're fine. |
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