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Son of Slime 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 16, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Son of Slime
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Jump on this route when it's dry. Good friction throughout.

    P1- 5.10a PG13 Start from a bolted anchor on ledge and climb up to base of C-Tips to place your first pro. Continue traversing right with some gear [small nuts or large RP's useful] to a stance slightly above a bolt. Clip bolt and down climb [crux] below it. Make a series of long thin face moves to another stance [good gear once there] or down climb more [easier] to a second bolt [DON'T CLIP 2nd BOLT] traverse and climb up to stance. Make your way to the bolted rap station.

    P2- 5.9+ G/5.7 R Climb the obvious crack to a pair of bolts then climb to a second pair of bolts. Move over the 2nd pair and climb easier with scarce pro to ledge.
    One 50m rap or two 30m.

    There are 2 or 3 more pitches above but I didn't do them.


    Location 

    The ledge 20m right of The Great Dihedral. Same start as C-Tips.


    Protection 

    .5" to 1.25" or Green Alien to Green X4 and some small nuts.
    Doubles in .75" - 1." Yellow to Red Alien
    Plus a #3 blue C4. A 2 works but 3 is better.
    All anchors are bolted



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    Son of Slime 2nd pitch
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