Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...
Son of Great Chimney is an inspiring and intimidating line for the grade. Start on the left side of the north face. Off balance moves up the arete will lead you past pins, and into the middle crux and a few big moves. Make your way over to the right side, and finish up the right hand arete. Don't forget to enjoy the view.
It is true that Pete's onsight lead in 68 was one of the greatest single moments in DL history. Not to mention the rest of the country.
Hard to miss if you are looking at it from the top of Prospect point.
Fixed pins, some old, some have been replaced with new reqruits lately. Wires, small cams.
The gear on the route is good but spaced out in places. Most of the old pins have cams and wire placements close. Just don't pass up any good gear placements and you will be fine. I would recommend putting in a few pieces at the crux in the center of the route. Make sure you use the pin & large sideways wire placement at the start. bring extra 1" to 2" cams
I think Pete's 1965 onsight lead good be one of best accomplishment at DL!
By Tradoholic Nov 26, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Wow, great route, the crux had some awkward finger stacking for me. Led today grabbing handfuls of snow on the top out. I used a #0 cam at the start, wouldn't want to fall there though. Gear is spaced out so a fall would be long one but safe. Anyone have opinions on the block halfway up that you can place nuts behind? It looks solidly wedged in there, anybody seen a fall on it? Pins are still there but I don't they are needed anymore with the tiny pro we can buy in this day and age. I second Pete's on-sight as the greatest accomplishment at DL. BTW, ignore this climb if it's under 30 degrees, very shady area.
By Kris Gorny Administrator Dec 6, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
Nick -- the block does feel hollow and little iffy. I think it's ok for little falls, especially when a nut is placed at the bottom of the block. I would not risk a big fall on it -- I don't think the entire block would dislodge (not yet at least) but for the gear to pull, the block needs to move just a little. There are solid small cam placements higher up on the left but one needs to be careful with the rope (see the pic of the fall). I remember adding a #1 BD cam/long sling in the crack to the right. In any case, falling near the top is always an adventure, imho (see pic again :)).
Nice lead man! Way to send it in the snow.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN May 15, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
A benchmark climb for the grade and certainly one of the best routes at the lake.
By Paul Dieterle From: Pasadena, CA Nov 8, 2009 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a
Did it w/o pins and it felt super solid. My pro went grey alien, offset green/blue alien+number 7 BD nut in horizontal, blue alien, black mastercam, green alien, purple alien. Easily the best route I've ever been on and, though I don't claim to be a DL hardman/master, the best route at the lake in my opinion. Rhoads and I were talking about it and we both seem feel Pete's ascent is almost to the point of myth. I'm glad I was even able to do a route he did!
By Tradoholic Sep 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Did anyone notice that Sven says this is 5.11a in the new guide!
Can anybody give me a better idea of where the regular SOGC and the direct split? Is it from that no-hands/sit-down ledge, or is it above that? When I led this, I finished in the center of the face, which I found easier, but also placed some pro in the arete.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Oct 5, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
At the last piton. Good rest stance, clip the piton @ face level and/or any other gear you wish to place there, and reach a couple feet left and up into/onto the left-facing crack system and crank onto the face. This is maybe 12-15 feet from the top.
By Tradoholic Oct 7, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
10d Huston? That must be your sport climbing rating then? I think clipping all those bolts has shattered your frame of reference for real climbing.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 29, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
FINALLY led this yesterday(not sure what took me so long). I used to feel it was hard 11, but I have great beta for the crux and now think 11a is a better fit.