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Great Chimney Area
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Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West Homo T,TR 

Son Of Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pete Clevland, onsight pounding pins, 1968
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 9,522
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...

Description 

Son of Great Chimney is an inspiring and intimidating line for the grade. Start on the left side of the north face. Off balance moves up the arete will lead you past pins, and into the middle crux and a few big moves. Make your way over to the right side, and finish up the right hand arete. Don't forget to enjoy the view.

It is true that Pete's onsight lead in 68 was one of the greatest single moments in DL history. Not to mention the rest of the country.

Location 

Hard to miss if you are looking at it from the top of Prospect point.

Protection 

Fixed pins, some old, some have been replaced with new reqruits lately. Wires, small cams.


Photos of Son Of Great Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of Chris Hirsch onsight of SOGC.  April 09.
Another shot of Chris Hirsch onsight of SOGC. Apr...
Chris Hirsch onsighting SOGC.  April 09.
Chris Hirsch onsighting SOGC. April 09.
Anonymous climber preparing for the worst.   An example of a fall from the top of this exceptional climb.  Photo by Kryz Gorny
Anonymous climber preparing for the worst. An ex...
Son of the Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau. Yet another shot.
Son of the Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau. Yet anot...
Isaac Therneau on his send of Son of the Great Chimney. May 10 '09.
Isaac Therneau on his send of Son of the Great Chi...
Isaac on the rap.
Isaac on the rap.
Son of the Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau. May 10 '09.
Son of the Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau. May 10 '...
Jay Knower, On-Sight.
Jay Knower, On-Sight.
Jay Knower, On-Sight.
Jay Knower, On-Sight.
Jay Knower onsighting SOGC 10/16/2010 <br /> <br />photo: John Knoernschild
Jay Knower onsighting SOGC 10/16/2010

photo: John...
Kris Gorny just after the crux, on the traverse on his send of this great route.  Proud.
Kris Gorny just after the crux, on the traverse on...
Devils Lake. Son of Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau leading lower crux. October '08.
Devils Lake. Son of Great Chimney. Isaac Therneau ...
Devils Lake. Son of Great Chimney. Arete near the top. Climber: Isaac Therneau. October '08.
Devils Lake. Son of Great Chimney. Arete near the ...
J Knapp sending.
J Knapp sending.
near the end. November 8, 2009
near the end. November 8, 2009
Tom Mulholland
Tom Mulholland
Jay Knower. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Jay Knower. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Jay Knower getting some gear in on his onsight of SOGC 10/16/2010 <br /> <br />photo: John Knoernschild
Jay Knower getting some gear in on his onsight of ...
SOGC November 8, 2009
SOGC November 8, 2009
Joel leading
Joel leading
Kris Gorny scoping out the gear on his send of Son of Great Chimney, October 2007.
Kris Gorny scoping out the gear on his send of Son...
SOGC.  So Classic!
SOGC. So Classic!
The Therneaus and Kris Gorny planning the attack.  October 2007.
The Therneaus and Kris Gorny planning the attack. ...
Travis cops a "rest"
Travis cops a "rest"

Show All 39 Photos

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Comments on Son Of Great Chimney Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 29, 2011
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006

Give it all the stars....it is one the DL's best test piece routes.
By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
Nov 27, 2006

how is this thing for pro, are the pins gone? if so, do nuts work where they were?
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
May 5, 2007

The gear on the route is good but spaced out in places. Most of the old pins have cams and wire placements close. Just don't pass up any good gear placements and you will be fine. I would recommend putting in a few pieces at the crux in the center of the route.
Make sure you use the pin & large sideways wire placement at the start.
bring extra 1" to 2" cams

I think Pete's 1965 onsight lead good be one of best accomplishment at DL!
By Tradoholic
Nov 26, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Wow, great route, the crux had some awkward finger stacking for me. Led today grabbing handfuls of snow on the top out. I used a #0 cam at the start, wouldn't want to fall there though. Gear is spaced out so a fall would be long one but safe. Anyone have opinions on the block halfway up that you can place nuts behind? It looks solidly wedged in there, anybody seen a fall on it?
Pins are still there but I don't they are needed anymore with the tiny pro we can buy in this day and age.
I second Pete's on-sight as the greatest accomplishment at DL.
BTW, ignore this climb if it's under 30 degrees, very shady area.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Dec 6, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Nick -- the block does feel hollow and little iffy. I think it's ok for little falls, especially when a nut is placed at the bottom of the block. I would not risk a big fall on it -- I don't think the entire block would dislodge (not yet at least) but for the gear to pull, the block needs to move just a little. There are solid small cam placements higher up on the left but one needs to be careful with the rope (see the pic of the fall). I remember adding a #1 BD cam/long sling in the crack to the right. In any case, falling near the top is always an adventure, imho (see pic again :)).

Nice lead man! Way to send it in the snow.
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

A benchmark climb for the grade and certainly one of the best routes at the lake.
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Did it w/o pins and it felt super solid. My pro went grey alien, offset green/blue alien+number 7 BD nut in horizontal, blue alien, black mastercam, green alien, purple alien. Easily the best route I've ever been on and, though I don't claim to be a DL hardman/master, the best route at the lake in my opinion. Rhoads and I were talking about it and we both seem feel Pete's ascent is almost to the point of myth. I'm glad I was even able to do a route he did!
By Tradoholic
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Did anyone notice that Sven says this is 5.11a in the new guide!
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 22, 2010

I believe Son of a Great was the first .11c in the US.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Not sure about the first 11c in the US, is that true? A while back I said to Gorny that I wasn't sure it was really 11c. Gorny's response was, "Maybe, maybe not. But it is a fantastic climb." Yup.

To me it still does not feel 2 letters harder than Thoroughfare or Beginner's Demise, but that shouldn't detract from the amazing experience of climbing it.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 23, 2010

Not sure if this thing is completely accurate, but
stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.h...

It is listed as the one of the first 5.11s. So I was wrong.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Wow, well that's actually pretty cool. Really I wouldn't know 11a versus 11c anyway, depends on the day I guess. Sometimes they feel hard sometimes they don't.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 23, 2010

Doesn't SOGC get the two extra leter grades just for its obvious intimidation factor? The whole route is quite fear inducing when looking at it standing below and sizing it up...
By Tradoholic
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

C'mon, do you really think this is the same grade as Thoroughfare, Cop-Out, Beginners Demise, etc? SOGC is at least 5.11b
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Hmm. Forcing me to rethink eh? You're probably right Nick. I did not flash SOGC despite having good beta, and I (spray) onsighted or flashed the others.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Oct 5, 2010

Can anybody give me a better idea of where the regular SOGC and the direct split? Is it from that no-hands/sit-down ledge, or is it above that? When I led this, I finished in the center of the face, which I found easier, but also placed some pro in the arete.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 5, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

At the last piton. Good rest stance, clip the piton @ face level and/or any other gear you wish to place there, and reach a couple feet left and up into/onto the left-facing crack system and crank onto the face. This is maybe 12-15 feet from the top.
By Tradoholic
Oct 7, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

10d Huston? That must be your sport climbing rating then? I think clipping all those bolts has shattered your frame of reference for real climbing.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

FINALLY led this yesterday(not sure what took me so long). I used to feel it was hard 11, but I have great beta for the crux and now think 11a is a better fit.