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Great Chimney Area
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Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West Homo T,TR 

Son of Great Chimney Direct 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 3,243
Submitted By: David A Groth on Jun 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Liebacks on Son of a Great Chimney Direct. August ...

Description 

Do the first half of of the regular route and finish up the shallow dihedral left and center on the buttress, climb the center face instead of the corner. Climbing is sustained with a mantle/dino at the finish.

Location 

just left of the regular route.

Protection 

good wire with 2-3 offset cams


Photos of Son of Great Chimney Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Nate Erickson on SOGCD. October 2012.
Nate Erickson on SOGCD. October 2012.
Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Last (crux) move.
Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Last (crux) move.
Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Crux section near the top. Photo: Darin Limvere.
Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Crux section near t...
Devils Lake. Lower crux of Son of a Great Chimney and Son of a Great Chimney Direct. Photo: Darin Limvere.
Devils Lake. Lower crux of Son of a Great Chimney ...
Henning on Son of a Great Chimney Direct.
Henning on Son of a Great Chimney Direct.
Josh Knapp topping out SOGC direct.
Josh Knapp topping out SOGC direct.
Photo by Ryan Day-Thompson
Photo by Ryan Day-Thompson

Comments on Son of Great Chimney Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 13, 2011
By richard bechler
Jun 26, 2007

You BAAstard! You stole my route! Just when I was going to make a come back!
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

A key flake broke off at the crux and the exit moves may now be easier than they used to be (no dyno). Really great route that protects reasonably well.

Offset Aliens are perfect for protecting the top moves.
By Travis Hibbard
Sep 1, 2008

Did this on TR over Labor Day weekend, absolutely amazing route. The finishing moves didn't seem too hard so i'm guessing Kris is right on with the finish.

Incredible lead Kris

Best route at DL
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 16, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Thanks, Travis. Son of the Great Chimney and the direct variation would be mega-classics at any crag. Hats off to Pete Cleveland and Dave Groth.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Finally sacked up to lead this today-- awesome route! Well protected but somewhat runout, with a second exciting crux at the top.

Click here for gear beta if you are interested.
By Tradoholic
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Finally got on this today, it is VERY GOOD! That crux after the rest on the regular route always feels hard for me. I assume I'm allowed to use the jugs on top of the see-behind block, then move left to the face? That seemed to feel like where the line logically divided.
By Tradoholic
Sep 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Went back and led this today, one of the better protected 12's in the park. The last gear was placed blindly but I could down climb to the rest and then go up fresh to have a look at it. A whip from the top would be long but decently clean. A brass offset fit perfectly for the crux piece.

BTW, the crux of the regular route is always tricky for me, 11b/c for that. Not 11a like in the new guide.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Sep 9, 2011

For me, the route goes up from the crux of the 11a, pulling the bulge. There's one jug ledge at the top of the bulge, then a long reach to a thin crimp allows you to reset your feet for another long reach to the upper horizontal, which has 2 decent crimps in it. From these, you can place a #1 C4 and a nut in the blocks on the arete (without using the holds on the arete), then move up into that layback. A bit higher, in the second layback of the upper crux, you can place a bomber offset nut (one of the largest ones), but you'll probably need to figure this piece out before the lead, as it can be a bit pumpy here.

I think avoiding the right arete completely makes this route pumpy enough to deserve the 12a (as former debate suggests that the broken rock makes the upper crux 11d).
By Tradoholic
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ah, thanks Tom, I kinda thought that. I don't place gear in places I can't use for my hands so I considered that a unreasonable run-out if I went straight up from the bulge with no gear. 5.11d if one goes out right to the rest then.
By Tradoholic
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There's a nice .75 C4 in the horizontal just left of the see behind block, kinda funky but its solid. Unfortunately this means I need to lead the direct proper without use of the rest.
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Sep 13, 2011

Just try to find that offset nut in one of the lieback flakes. It should protect the cruxiest moves.
By Tradoholic
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yea, I got that, its the biggest off-set brass, plus a red C3 a few inches higher. They were both slightly blind placements and were hard to get perfect on lead.