Son of Dawn Wall
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BETA PHOTO: Various Routes up the front side of Machete. Much ...
I feel this excellent mixed route may be better than Cuidado. It follows one of the most striking lines in the Park, and offers great and sustained adventure climbing.
P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.
P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.
P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.
P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.
P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.
This route starts about 200 yards up and to the right or Dos Equis. The first pitch climbs from out under a big oak. The upper pitches climb the obvious flare which can be seen from the trail leading into the west side.
Draws and slings for bolts. Make sure to carry many slings since this will reduce rope drag and make it easier to pull through the aid section. The upper chimney/flare pitches protect with medium size nuts and 1 each cams from .75-5".
Two ropes needed to rapp route.
By John Knight
Feb 9, 2012
Instead of rapping, you can also continue to the top, head east (climber's left) across the top of the ridge and rap down the Hideout (less than 100' rap). About 20 minutes or so of scrambling down to the right (clockwise as viewed from the top)- 2nd/3rd Class - and you'll be back to the base of the climb. Probably easier/safer than rapping the entire route.
Jan 26, 2013
Awesome fun route. The squeeze chimney up top is super memorable.
By Mickey Sensenbach
From: San luis obispo CA
Nov 3, 2013
this route was super adventurous! it is easy till the chimney then it gets scary, not nessarily hard but it is very lose and bad pro! the crux is the pitch going into the chimney, which would be the first chimney pitch! I agree with john for the descent but instead of doing the hideout thing we reversed the first 2 pitches of old original! pretty fun time!