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 ADVANCED
Machete Ridge Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Corona S 
Cuidado! S 
Dos Equis S 
Los Banditos T 
Machete Direct  T,S 
Old Original T 
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 
Unsorted Routes:

Son of Dawn Wall 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0-1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A0-1 [details]
FA: Dave Crough and Christian Straight, 1978
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: Kevin Friedrich on Aug 7, 2008

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Description 

I feel this excellent mixed route may be better than Cuidado. It follows one of the most striking lines in the Park, and offers great and sustained adventure climbing.

P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.

P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.

P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.

P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.

P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.


Location 

This route starts about 200 yards up and to the right or Dos Equis. The first pitch climbs from out under a big oak. The upper pitches climb the obvious flare which can be seen from the trail leading into the west side.


Protection 

Draws and slings for bolts. Make sure to carry many slings since this will reduce rope drag and make it easier to pull through the aid section. The upper chimney/flare pitches protect with medium size nuts and 1 each cams from .75-5".

Two ropes needed to rapp route.



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By John Knight
Feb 9, 2012

Instead of rapping, you can also continue to the top, head east (climber's left) across the top of the ridge and rap down the Hideout (less than 100' rap). About 20 minutes or so of scrambling down to the right (clockwise as viewed from the top)- 2nd/3rd Class - and you'll be back to the base of the climb. Probably easier/safer than rapping the entire route.

By BighornAdams
Jan 26, 2013

Awesome fun route. The squeeze chimney up top is super memorable.

By Mickey Sensenbach
From: San luis obispo CA
Nov 3, 2013

this route was super adventurous! it is easy till the chimney then it gets scary, not nessarily hard but it is very lose and bad pro! the crux is the pitch going into the chimney, which would be the first chimney pitch! I agree with john for the descent but instead of doing the hideout thing we reversed the first 2 pitches of old original! pretty fun time!