This is a wonderful climb, with some great face climbing on P2. The P1 mini-roof is harder than it looks. The P2 crux protects with small cams or tricams, but there is some easier runout climbing after the crux. It's a heady lead if 5.6 is your limit.
P1 - Climb the flake and crack to the small roof, surmount it on the left, then traverse back right on the face. Continue up and right toward the left edge of the gully to a stance with 2 blocks and a belay. There is sometimes some fixed gear here.
P2 - Continue up the face until it steepens, finding the best holds, up to the GT ledge. Move right to the belay rap tree and rap with two 60m ropes.
P3 - You could continue to the top on grassy rock if you must, but hardly anyone does.
At a short, right facing flake capped by a small roof just left of the broken gully that separates this climb from the Dis-Mantel
Standard Gunks rack + small cams/tricams
By Dana Bartlett
Jul 18, 2009
If you want to climb with one rope, you can use a 60 meter rope and rappel to the top of the large ledge that is right of the start of this route (left as you are facing out at the top). Another rap leads down the gully to the base, or you can walk over to the belay tree of Raunchy.
By Dana Marie
From: Cold Spring
Jul 21, 2009
I'd be careful of that fixed gear at the top of P1. At top out of Son of Bitchy Virgin it's easy enough to traverse right (if facing the cliff) and rappel from the other tree. This takes you straight down to the gully and tree with slings that the (other) Dana is talking about.