Type: Trad
FA: Scott Milton
Page Views: 1,359 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kevin Macartney on Jul 1, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description Suggest change

Son of a Wanted Man is an anomaly for Vedauwoo; instead of climbing a crack or sharp crystals, the dike that characterizes this route allows you to climb on mostly smooth holds: crimps, pinches, and underclings. Don't let the abundant features fool you though, Son of a Wanted Man is hard from the get go. A short tricky boulder problem guards the beginning of the route, then after a quick reprieve, you charge forward into the crux overlap, where the angle of the wall changes. As you get closer to the obvious jug, the other features die off, and you are left with powerful moves to vague pinches and blobs. Once you gain the Thank God jug, the hard climbing is over, but now you have to place gear for protection, and just when you think it's over, there is one last boulder guarding the chains, more of a mental challenge than a physical one though.

Location Suggest change

You'll find this route about a hundred feet left of Pretty Girls With Long Knives. The route climbs the obvious dike feature (handholds!) up the mostly vertical face.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to get you through the crux, then protect with some gear up to thin hands size to the anchors.

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