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Hijacked Project 
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Oink! Oink! 
One-Armed Bandit 
Renegade 
Son of a Wanted Man 
Stealing Melinda 
Surfing the Whale's Back 
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Unsorted Routes:

Son of a Wanted Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 73'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Lubben, Kris Hampton. 2006.
Page Views: 188
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 19, 2010
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Description 

A fun gear-protected route that uses a crack for protection but offers good face holds, jugs, pockets and side-pulls for holds.

Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal. ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.

Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.


Location 

The most obvious crack with a single bolt about 50 feet left of Gym Jones Approved


Protection 

Supplement the single bolt about 20 feet up with BD cams from .5 to #3. I didn't place any nuts.



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