Son of a Wanted Man
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
Type: | Trad, 73 ft (22 m) |
FA: | Craig Lubben, Kris Hampton. 2006. |
Page Views: | 1,449 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Oct 19, 2010 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
A fun gear-protected route that uses a crack for protection but offers good face holds, jugs, pockets and side-pulls for holds.
Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.
Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.
Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.
Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.
Photos
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