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Somewhere Over the Rainbow
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Ginger Buttress
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Roxanna Brock, Gary Fike |
| Page Views: | 2,200 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | beny on Feb 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a pretty decent route with the best pitches being the 1st and 3rd. As recomended in "red rock canyon: a climbing guide", we only did the first seven pitches. Three more pitches continue up, but are apparently dirty and bushy. After the 3rd pitch, the rock quality diminishes greatly. However, those 3 pitches are well worth the effort.
P1: 5.11a Climb a thin, flaring finger crack on varnished rock to a series of R-facing flakes and pillars. Continue the crack up on questionable rock to reach a comfortable alcove with a 2-bolt anchor. 140 ft.
P2: 5.7 Stem and chimney up a right-facing corner to a low angle slab. Stop at anchors. 100 ft.
P3: 5.11b Meander up and left to a thin crack on varnished rock. The crack you are looking for is formed by two very shallow corners that face each other about 2 ft apart. Climb up these corners, reaching a wide, R-facing flake system. Belay at anchors before it ends. 130 ft.
P4: 5.8R Step back left to the wide crack, step left again when it ends and continue up the well featured face on questionable holds. Pro is good when available. A 4 friend fits well in a pocket midway up. 120 ft.
P5: 5.10c Continue up, past a few bushy ledges, eventually gaining a R-facing, rotten corner. Follow this corner until it begins to widen, and belay at bolts L of the crack. 110 ft.
P6: 5.11d Take on the roof above you by following the crack as it widens to a chimney, then back down to 4-5". Milk a good rest before taking on the roof, which is 1.5" for a few feet, then widens to hands. Finally, pull around the roof and find the good stance before clipping the anchors. 50 ft.
P7: 5.9 Keep climbing up the corner to a ledge, then traverse right to a L-facing corner and up to another ledge. 120 ft.
P1: 5.11a Climb a thin, flaring finger crack on varnished rock to a series of R-facing flakes and pillars. Continue the crack up on questionable rock to reach a comfortable alcove with a 2-bolt anchor. 140 ft.
P2: 5.7 Stem and chimney up a right-facing corner to a low angle slab. Stop at anchors. 100 ft.
P3: 5.11b Meander up and left to a thin crack on varnished rock. The crack you are looking for is formed by two very shallow corners that face each other about 2 ft apart. Climb up these corners, reaching a wide, R-facing flake system. Belay at anchors before it ends. 130 ft.
P4: 5.8R Step back left to the wide crack, step left again when it ends and continue up the well featured face on questionable holds. Pro is good when available. A 4 friend fits well in a pocket midway up. 120 ft.
P5: 5.10c Continue up, past a few bushy ledges, eventually gaining a R-facing, rotten corner. Follow this corner until it begins to widen, and belay at bolts L of the crack. 110 ft.
P6: 5.11d Take on the roof above you by following the crack as it widens to a chimney, then back down to 4-5". Milk a good rest before taking on the roof, which is 1.5" for a few feet, then widens to hands. Finally, pull around the roof and find the good stance before clipping the anchors. 50 ft.
P7: 5.9 Keep climbing up the corner to a ledge, then traverse right to a L-facing corner and up to another ledge. 120 ft.
Location
This route is pretty much on Ginger Buttress. It starts in the bowl above Power Failure. Approach any number of ways (all require technical climbimg), with Power Failure being the shortest. After gaining the bowl, move to the high left portion of by any means possible. Its possible to go directly up and left to reach the base, but its much easier to go up, then traverse left at the base of the wall. You will be looking for a flaring, shallow crack on varnished rock.
Protection
Roxanna suggested gear from 00-5 friends with doubles of 1.5, 3, 3.5. We took them and didn't ever use the doubles. RP's and micro cams were helpful on pitch 3. The 5 friend was nice for the 6th pitch, but wasn't really needed (a 4 protected almost as well). The pitch lengths come from Roxanna's book, but didn't seem quite right when rapping.
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