Sometimes Left Side
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 10 votes
Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | First lead Kris Gorny 2011 |
Page Views: | 1,959 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jay Knower on Aug 9, 2005 |
Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel |
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Description
Start as for Sometimes and surmount the pillar. Here the wall steepens, and you have the choice moving right into Sometimes Crack, or moving left onto the steep face.
To start the Left Side, gain a sloping ledge and launch into the crux of the route. Expect powerful moves off crimps and sidepuls, culminating with a lunge to the prominent horizontal break. Smile to yourself after you stick the lunge, since you just dispensed with the V3 crux move.
You are not out of the woods yet, as you still must negotiate the Sometimes Direct crux. Ignore the pump, because you have the Direct crux wired anyway. You had better have the crux wired, you poor, pumped, sketching climber, or you are in for a tough fight.
To start the Left Side, gain a sloping ledge and launch into the crux of the route. Expect powerful moves off crimps and sidepuls, culminating with a lunge to the prominent horizontal break. Smile to yourself after you stick the lunge, since you just dispensed with the V3 crux move.
You are not out of the woods yet, as you still must negotiate the Sometimes Direct crux. Ignore the pump, because you have the Direct crux wired anyway. You had better have the crux wired, you poor, pumped, sketching climber, or you are in for a tough fight.
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