This route is lonnnnggg and can rightfully be considered one of the best ultra-long single pitch routes at Rifle (the others being the 8th Day, MC 900-Foot Jesus, Schwa and Present Tense).
Sometimes Always is a rope-stretching, forearm burning 130 feet of overhanging limestone with plenty of hard business up high. It demonstrates just how much climbing all the other Project Wall routes out right would yield were they too extended to the top of the wall -- and through the twin, blue-streaked bulges which overhang the road 180 feet below.
Begin just right of Living in Fear on the dirty bench/ledge. Boulder up to a high clip and pass a glued jug-spike. The route goes right a bit then straight up the overhanging wall above. This wall fades into an elegant stemming corner, which leads to a capping roof. Above the roof is a beautiful blue/grey headwall with perfect stone in one of Rifle's wildest positions, high over the one of deepest, narrowest sectors of the Canyon.
A stem crux high in the corner can avoided by moving slightly right, then back left into the corner. This sequence presents its own set of problems, however.
20 quickdraws and the longest rope you own (hint: even a 70-meter cord won't get you from the anchors to the ground).
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Aug 25, 2006
The above information is incorrect. You can lower from the anchors easily with a 70 meter rope.
|By Rami Najjar|
Mar 29, 2010
Thanks for that info, Jay. That would save me a lot of future trouble, cuz I have a 70 meter.
|By Blake Cash|
Apr 7, 2010
Could never quite get the stem crux...really hard. Moving right into PT seemed just as hard as you're climbing on footholds. Don't underestimate the final section from the last bolt to the chains either...it's definitely 5.12 delicate slab...and hard.