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Sometimes a Great Notion 

Sometimes a Great Notion 

WI5- M5

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus: WI5- M5 [details]
FA: Jack Hunt
Page Views: 233
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008

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Description 

A terriffic column of ice when formed, but conditions can vary greatly. It can have an M4 start, M5 start, or ice. It can be straightforward, strenuous ice or at least once, a godawful hard ice roof. It's always worth climbing if you are up for the slog up to it (see below). Once you top out, belay from chains in large boulder which you might need to dig for if there is a lot of snow (which is typical).

Location 

The 2nd tier of the chain station. Climb any line at the main chain station then go up and left (more left than up really) for a honest 300-400 yards or more. You will pass some short stuff that may or may not be worth doing before rounding a corner and seeing this beautiful pillar that "you just gotta climb". Recommend rapping from chain anchor at top, but you can walk off East (long). Since you are up here, do Penny Slot in the gully to the left which is fun. Some folks snowshoe the approach which is often a good idea.

Protection 

Screws if the ice touches down. If not, thin gear will be necessary for the start.


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