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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way T 
Angle of the Dangle T 
Assume the Position T,TR 
Beginning, The T,TR 
Birch Tree Crack T,TR 
Blow-up T,TR 
Chimney's End T,TR 
Condolences T 
Congratulations T,TR 
Creation Crack T 
D.L.F.A T 
Dog, The TR 
Dyslexia TR 
End Of The End, The TR 
End, The T,TR 
Evelyn Bites The Crust TR 
F4 Ledges T 
Flake Route T,TR 
Golden Ledges T 
Hourglass T,TR 
Hourglass Direct TR 
Ironmongers T 
Ironmongers Super Direct T,TR 
Lethe T 
Lower Diagonal T,TR 
Modern Art TR 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pete's Lament TR 
Pine Box T 
Rich and Famous TR 
Sometime Crack T,TR 
Sometime Direct T 
Sometimes Left Side TR 
Sometimes Right T 
Stretcher, The TR 
Sweatshop T,TR 
Upper Diagonal T,TR 
Welfare Line TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Sometime Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Gill, solo, 1962
Page Views: 7,106
Submitted By: Jan Brown on Oct 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BH topping in out in Gill's footstep on Somtimes C...

Description 

Sometime Crack is found on the monolith of rock that sticks out between the Pedestal Buttress and D'Arcy's Buttress. The climb faces southeast and is overhanging. Start out on a slabby piece of rock that is rated about 5.6. Climb the 10-15 feet to the top of this slab and you'll be standing on a ledge at the base of the crack. Climb the crack using jams (it's the only way in this case, so don't try to layback or you'll get spit off). At the top of the crack the route goes to the right on a less defined crack/ledge for about 10 feet to the top.


Protection 

Small to medium stoppers.



Photos of Sometime Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Matt comes to terms with this pumpy number. Photo: Ryan Strong
Matt comes to terms with this pumpy number. Photo:...
Sometime Crack
BETA PHOTO: Sometime Crack
Bob Horan following in Gill's footstep on Sometimes Crack, circa late 1970s.
Bob Horan following in Gill's footstep on Sometime...
Ryan Pulling down on Sometime Crack.
Ryan Pulling down on Sometime Crack.
Alex S.
Alex S.
Lace it up! 1984
Lace it up! 1984
Dan F placing pro on Sometimes crack. Photo Mike Lopera
Dan F placing pro on Sometimes crack. Photo Mike L...
Rhoads first climb of the day is the classic  <br />Sometime's crack.  Nick is about 10feet from the  <br />top.  Photo taken by myself Colin Erskine
Rhoads first climb of the day is the classic
Some...
Dan F starting the lead of Sometimes crack 5.10a in the middle of the rain. Photo Mike Lopera
Dan F starting the lead of Sometimes crack 5.10a i...
Jan Brown near the top of Sometime Crack.
Jan Brown near the top of Sometime Crack.
Ryan sending Sometimes Crack
Ryan sending Sometimes Crack
Eb's and painter pants, classic. 1985
Eb's and painter pants, classic. 1985
Finding the good stance on the steep crack.
Finding the good stance on the steep crack.
Reaching the top of the main crack, just before moving off right then up.
Reaching the top of the main crack, just before mo...
Comments on Sometime Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 2, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

first lead by John Gill ,solo, 1962.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 4, 2002

Thanks for the FA info Steve. That guy was amazing! Did he rope solo or free solo?

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 4, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

that would be Free Solo.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 11, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It's still a hard lead if you do it without SLCD's, particularly on a hot august day. In 1992... I have the distinct memory of trying to get a middle-sized Lowe Tricam (blue or purple) to stick at the crux, but it kept wiggling... eventually you give up and climb without it. SLCD's probably make it easier, but imagining a lead on just passive pro, or free-solo, really ballsy.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 17, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

All cams rely on friction, tricams do certainly as well. Chocks less so. It's a simple product of camming angle, coefficient of friction and wall angle, although that's virtually impossible to model for an individual placement... It's still the driving force of how that all works. A "steeper" cam will more likely slide or pop in most cases.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Feb 16, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this could have been done as early as 1958-59

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

all the variations of this are excellant!of note is "Blow-Up"5.10b at the horizontal traverse left to the arete then up.this is out there.i remember following barney shaffers lead of the crack with the rope tied to my neck,is that jacked or what? STUPID!!

By Colin Erskine
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2005

I tried this as the last climb of the day b/c i didnt feel pumped at all and this crack was very tough esp in the middle going up for the big hold that is about 3" taller than me. I dont really like hand jams that much but there are some crimps in the crack which i like better. The top was very hard, i could not get it after 10 trys. But i am excited to go back and give it another go.

By Andy Bissell
Dec 1, 2006

If your interested in some classic photo's of John Gill doing Acid Rock, Sometime Crack, Tombstone wall and the Flatiron, head to his website - www.johngill.net

Stated there, he indicates he did those routes/problems in 58/59 like Steve Sangdahl said. Amazing amount of history on his website too. Worth looking into.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2008

I have this memory from my earlier years of Dave Groth soloing this thing as a "warmdown". He came walking down around the corner with that classic grin of his, mumbling something about "high bouldering"... and left it at that for me to interpret. Nobody around, just he and I. Kinda timeless. JJ