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Routes in Avalanche Mountain
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Chalk-Up Matilda T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sheer Failure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Something Wicked T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 390 ft (118 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ed Palen, Laurie Daniels |
| Page Views: | 2,854 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Abrams on Sep 30, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Nice chimney route in the Avalanche Lake area. Stellar scenery and good views of the California Flake across the lake.
P1 - 5.6: From the amphitheater formed by a large cave, climb up the right wall of the cave aiming for an obvious off-width that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, traverse left onto a tree-covered ledge with fixed rap webbing on its left side. You can easily see the P2 chimney from this ledge. Belay here.
P2 - 5.8: Walk into the base of the enormous chimney. Begin stemming your way up the chimney to a bolt. Continue up the narrowing chimney and pass a large chockstone on its left side. Continue through the chimney that narrows almost to a squeeze, then exit the chimney onto the top of an enormous flake that forms the left side of the chimney. Continue up easier ground to the top of the flake and a 2-bolt anchor on the main wall.
(disclaimer: we stopped here and rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70m rope. You can get to the ground in 2 rappels with a single 70m rope from the top of P2)
P3 description is included for completeness. P3 is described as being dirty and painful in the guidebook.
P3 - 5.9: From the top of the enormous flake, traverse left, then step onto the main wall. Traverse left 20' to the base of a crack. Climb the crack, then head right to a tree island.
P1 - 5.6: From the amphitheater formed by a large cave, climb up the right wall of the cave aiming for an obvious off-width that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, traverse left onto a tree-covered ledge with fixed rap webbing on its left side. You can easily see the P2 chimney from this ledge. Belay here.
P2 - 5.8: Walk into the base of the enormous chimney. Begin stemming your way up the chimney to a bolt. Continue up the narrowing chimney and pass a large chockstone on its left side. Continue through the chimney that narrows almost to a squeeze, then exit the chimney onto the top of an enormous flake that forms the left side of the chimney. Continue up easier ground to the top of the flake and a 2-bolt anchor on the main wall.
(disclaimer: we stopped here and rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70m rope. You can get to the ground in 2 rappels with a single 70m rope from the top of P2)
P3 description is included for completeness. P3 is described as being dirty and painful in the guidebook.
P3 - 5.9: From the top of the enormous flake, traverse left, then step onto the main wall. Traverse left 20' to the base of a crack. Climb the crack, then head right to a tree island.
Location
If you approach Avalanche Lake from the Loj, this climb will be on the right side of the lake, opposite the California Flake. The approach from the trail is not obvious, but it can be clearly seen from the base of the California Flake. We ended up walking up the trail until we thought we were near the base, then bushwhacked up a short ways to a gully that lead us to the base of the cave.
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