Climb orange/white face just right of a crack. While now a fully bolted sport route, the crack behind the ledge 10' up supposedly takes gear well.
Just right of It Crack.
The original route was retro-bolted by the FA. This route is now entirely bolt protected. The anchors are leaver biners.
Clay Mansfield in the business.
|By Zeb Rafaker|
Nov 20, 2009
Fun steep climbing. Heelhook's, slaps, crimps, side pulls, jugs, and long reaches lead to a very cruxy finish. Not so sure about placing pro on this one.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Apr 14, 2013
Retro bolted the 5.11R start to this route. Originally I did this climb by traversing in from the left (It Crack). Later I did the unprotected direct start. It is a really nice climb with the protected direct start. Although I think it may only be 11+. Look forward to what others think.
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is a fun little route. Solid two stars. Great technical climbing, and nice flow. It would get another star if it were longer. Clipping the chains wasn't as easy as I had hoped on my nos (near-onsight), whipping off after doing all of the moves.
Thanks EFR for the retrobolt! Bottom is fun.
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Updated the route description to reflect the retro-bolted status.
A very nice line reminiscent in both rock quality and style of Jailhouse Rock at Prison Camp. Ample rests break the fun sequences. I found it better and easier than The Other One.
Mar 23, 2014
3 stars..... all night long.