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It Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All of the Above S 
Another Thing S,TR 
Cousin It S 
It Crack T 
Other One, The S 
Reiterate S 
Something Else S 
Teeny Weeny S 
Vince's Girlfriend S 
Your Boyfriend S 
Your Momma S 

Something Else 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Original: EFR, John Hayes 1986 Retro-bolt: EFR 2013
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: Braxtron on Mar 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Clay Mansfield on the redpoint.

Description 

Climb orange/white face just right of a crack. While now a fully bolted sport route, the crack behind the ledge 10' up supposedly takes gear well.

Location 

Just right of It Crack.

Protection 

The original route was retro-bolted by the FA. This route is now entirely bolt protected. The anchors are leaver biners.


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Clay Mansfield in the business.
Clay Mansfield in the business.

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By Zeb Rafaker
From: Moab
Nov 20, 2009

Fun steep climbing. Heelhook's, slaps, crimps, side pulls, jugs, and long reaches lead to a very cruxy finish. Not so sure about placing pro on this one.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 14, 2013

Retro bolted the 5.11R start to this route. Originally I did this climb by traversing in from the left (It Crack). Later I did the unprotected direct start. It is a really nice climb with the protected direct start. Although I think it may only be 11+. Look forward to what others think.
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a fun little route. Solid two stars. Great technical climbing, and nice flow. It would get another star if it were longer. Clipping the chains wasn't as easy as I had hoped on my nos (near-onsight), whipping off after doing all of the moves.

Thanks EFR for the retrobolt! Bottom is fun.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Updated the route description to reflect the retro-bolted status.

A very nice line reminiscent in both rock quality and style of Jailhouse Rock at Prison Camp. Ample rests break the fun sequences. I found it better and easier than The Other One.
By jbak
Mar 23, 2014

3 stars..... all night long.