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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Something Boring T 
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Something Boring 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Walter Baumann, Beth Stannard, Laura Brant, Christian Leroyer, 1971
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

1. Climb to the bottom of an obvious crack, go right a bit and then wander up to the big ledge on Three Pines. 5.7, 100 feet.

2. Start 15-20 feet right of the Three Pines corner. Climb straight up the face to the overhang. After the overhang, straight up again to the large ledge. 5.9 X, 60 feet.

3. I haven't done the third pitch, but those that have told me it is nice climbing and well protected.

The description in the latest gray 'Gunks guidebook is not correct.

I did this in 1980, and we hadn't started using harnesses or belay devices yet - not so unusual at the time. There is no protection on the second pitch until after the roof, and the crux is immediately below that and about 40 feet off the ledge. Just as I made the hardest move and latched a decent edge, my foothold snapped. There was most definitely a few seconds of focused attention. Whenever I see my friend Larry we talk about that day and we wonder: just what would it have felt like for him to catch an unanchored, 80 foot fall with a hip belay.

Location 

Start approximately halfway between Three Pines and Something Interesting; there are no distinct landmarks.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.


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By JSH
Administrator
Mar 8, 2011

Yikes!

For those of us with shorter necks, this can be toproped easily from the rappel bolts, but beware that you'll be toproping the rappel line (for that matter, you should beware if you lead it, as well).
By losbill
Mar 8, 2011

Geez Dana sounds damn exciting! I'm assuming you are planning to go back, assuming you are all healed up now, and get the third pitch done! I am nominating Ed as your second. I assume he, of course, will do it old school style and take it off the hip!

bill
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 9, 2011

I was never able to lead P2 despite trying several times. I'd get half way up or so and then angle one way or the other (don't remember) to live another day. P1 is fun, steep and juggy, with some gear, and worth doing on its own.