Some Like It Hot 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Jim Murray 2/86 (1st pitch only), FFA of 1st pitch and 2nd pitch: Dave Mayville and Paul Borne 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Adam Stackhouse on Apr 3, 2006 |
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Bobby P. moving through the sustained crux section...
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Description This fantastic route is right of the route Where Eagles Dare (5.11+). The first pitch follows a bolt protected right traversing 5.12- crack/seam which eventually swings up to a bolted belay (shared with Desert Song). Pitch two exits from the belay right a few feet then heads up the former aid route now rated 5.12c, to the top for another bolted anchor.
Protection Bolts,and standard rack for the second pitch (which also has bolts)
Bobby P. at the second sequential / technical crux...
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BETA PHOTO: Some Like It Hot (5.12c) follows the right travers...
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BETA PHOTO: Top Belay
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| Comments on Some Like It Hot |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 3, 2006
| The first pitch was originally done as an aid climb called "Sacred Bear" (A3+) which had no bolts but sported a couple of fixed rurps at the start and finish.
The first pitch (5.12b) has nine bolts and can be done as a sport route, although you may wish a medium cam to get to the high first bolt; the second pitch (5.12c) has five bolts and requires some gear. |
By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 4, 2006
| I appreciate the manner in which the first pitch (solid at 12b) of this route was bolted. You have to make difficult crux moves a considerable distance from the bolts; no faking it! Tread lightly on the loose flake between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. |
By Randy
Apr 4, 2006
| The first pitch is excellent (haven't done the 2nd). Originally, the first pitch was a bit easier (12a), but a foothold broke off, now 12b. |
By Drewsky
Dec 25, 2012
| The second pitch is listed in the new Miramontes guide as .11b. I thought it would be a lark to link Desert Song P1 into it. Turns out, it is an awesome 180 foot pitch but no wonder it felt hard! |
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