|The Pipe Dream
Great climbing with a mix of jugs and technical climbing. Start on positive cobble and pull small roof on first half, from there make a few balance, crimpy, long moves to reach chains.
First route on vertical face left of huge cave. Start on the first man made belay. (5th route from right)
Fixed Draws to chains w/ biners
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The most sandbagged route on the wall! I sent all of the 11's at the Pipe Dream and thought this was the hardest of the lot. Perhaps also the best 11 there, although it's a toss-up with Dry Spunk. The sequential crimps and slopers at the top spit me off time and time again.
Dec 30, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A key hold broke on this climb in 2011, so it feels harder than 11c ESP compared to the other 11s.