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Soloist Devices
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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 10, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

I tried a friends Silent Partner out and opted to go with that device instead. Reviews have suggested that the Silent partner was a better choice between the two of them - tho I admit I never tried the Soloist myself. What I did find was the prices between the two devices are quite different. I had to purchased a used Silent Partner to afford it honestly. $250 for a brand new one was out of my budget.

As in anything - I think it comes down to being comfortable with YOUR choice of device - understanding how to use it correctly - the pro's and con's of each device, having some sort of back up system, etc.

Everyone has their own opinion(s) on all climbing products. Just ask about carabiner's and you'll get a multitude of diff answers and recommendations! Not saying everyone is wrong for sure - but everyone has their OWN particular likes and dislikes.


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By harpo-the-climber
May 7, 2013

Locker wrote:
^^^ You should just "Sack up" and use it for TR Soloing. It won't fuck your rope up unless you royally fuck up. I've used them for many years and ZERO negative issues with them for TR Soloing. signed, Dumbfuck from Where Montana ;-)


Hey locker do u have any tips on using the mini/micro Trax for tr soloing without fucking up your ropes? Do u just have to make sure u keep slack out of the system so u only fall as far as the rope stretches?


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By TacoDelRio
From All up in yo bidniss.
May 7, 2013
We don't kick it with bustas in khaki g-strangs.

How are people damaging their ropes with mini-trax's? Do folks not put weight at the bottom or not pull slack if it doesn't feed perfectly or something?


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By Febs
Nov 25, 2013

BHMBen wrote:
As for me.... SP for lead. Shunt for TR. Shunt, as Dave Macleod is utilizing it in this picture: With quicklink backup as demonstrated by Scott Bennett: Hundreds of pitches TR-soloed on the Shunt with quicklink backup....nary a problem. Tried the Trax a few times but don't like using the toothed clamp on my rope.


Several accidents has been reported with the Shunt and Petzl does not reccommend its use anymore for solo top-rope.
According to the company:
"SHUNT: Greater danger on sloping terrain where pressure against the device can impede jamming. The device will not jam if the user grabs the device during a fall."

Source: www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo->>>
(please click on the "Examples of possible malfunctions" link on that page).

I discovered that myself after buying one :( then I got a mini-traxion.


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By David Coley
From UK
Nov 26, 2013

MTKirk wrote:
From another thread, here's my experience with the Petzel Mini-Traxion I did some test falls up to 4' with 10' of rope (bluewater eliminator) out connected to a fixed anchor (so fall factor .4) result: ATC Guide in guide mode- no visible damage Petzel mini-traxion- ruined rope, mantle torn most of the way around rope and visible damage to kern fibers. Rope did hold.


A FF of 0.4 is a lead fall. The minitrax is good, but you do need to keep slack out of the system. Just like you would when jugging.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 27, 2013
...

"Do u just have to make sure u keep slack out of the system so u only fall as far as the rope stretches?"

You got it! It's not complicated. Not to say that there aren't times when a situation might occur where the line get's bunched up and so do your panties. That's why these days I run two ropes and two devices when I'm TR soloing something that might spit me off.

What I quickly learned some years back is that using the right weight on the rope is key to keeping the line taught enough and having the weight able to swing freely. I use a taped (to protect the bottle) water bottle with a top loop for clipping the rope to.




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By Jonah Klein
Dec 14, 2013
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall

When i gave up on looking for a partner to climb, i looked into solo climbing and the first thing that was most prominent in my search was what was then, the Wren soloist. This was about 6 months ago. I didn't see any other devises coming up in my search at the time, so i bought one. I like to lead climb mostly, and would not use this devise for Top Rope, I mostly stay away from top roping. I have since Lead climbed solo'd a 5.4 (2 pitch took me 4), a 5.8 (1 pitch took me 2) and a 5.6 (1pitch took me 2). I like this devise for its function as a Cam, like the GriGri. So there is no toothed Bite. I am always worried about this devise however, and i refuse to "Test" any devisee by leaping to a fall, i simply make a point to try not to fall, and so far have not taken any huge whip's with this devise. I do like its ability to register a pull and cam up even when i slip just a bit, allowing me to recover,i have had 2 instances where this saved me from a 20 foot fall as protection was stretched thin. To make the devise more effective, Setting your protection above you gives you greater level of safety, and reduces your possibility of a overturned fall. all in all it takes practice to manage the rope directions and gear management, but once you get it down, it flows smooth and quick. The drag has gotten me a few times when the devise gets a bit twisted in awkward moves or my rope is out almost full and tangles a bit and i do fear the overturned fall. If i feel there is a greater possibility of turning upside down, i will tie off a stopper knot within 10 feet. takes more time and i have to tie and un-tie, but better safe then sorry. All in all this devise has allowed me to climb when i could not before due to no partner. I cannot say it is better than any other, and would love the opportunity to try all the devises to find what is best, but i don't have a money tree. If anyone can think of a way to create an additional level of safety for the overturned fall for this devise that does not require constant backup knots, let me know as it would make this the perfect devise.

5.8 Highway To Hell 2 pitch Delaware Water Gap
5.8 Highway To Hell 2 pitch Delaware Water Gap


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Dec 14, 2013
Mt. Agassiz

Jonah, why on earth would you be worried about an "overturned fall"? You're wearing a modern harness and should know how to fall, especially if you're rope soloing.

Stay safe out there...


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By Jonah Klein
Dec 15, 2013
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall

If i worried about it that much, obviously i wouldn't climb with it. I did however see a video of a guy who was climbing a crack (Not solo), when he was too tired to go on, he called out falling, dropped, caught his gear, and flipped. He was on a standard belay so no issue, but that always sticks in the back of my head. Even when you know how to fall, there is the 1% chance, so i try to account for that as well. Especially since i climb over some overhangs that once turned over, is just air, no additional mountain to hit to possibly flip me upright.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 15, 2013
...

Switch to a "Silent Partner" and problem solved! Yeah, it's big and clunky. But the confidence it gives is worth it and you don't have to worry about the inversion factor. I used to have the "Soloist" and got rid of it as I too did not dig the thought.


And for TR soloing either use a Mini or Micro traxion or one of the many other devices out there.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 15, 2013
...

"Jonah, why on earth would you be worried about an "overturned fall"...


Picture pulling a roof where you're already halfway there. Now picture ripping and flying backwards totally out of control.

If only one could be certain of how they are going to fall. Problem is, you can't.


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By JacksonLandFill
From Maryland
Dec 19, 2013
not everyone smiles

Locker wrote:
"Jonah, why on earth would you be worried about an "overturned fall"... Picture pulling a roof where you're already halfway there. Now picture ripping and flying backwards totally out of control. If only one could be certain of how they are going to fall. Problem is, you can't.


^^^ boom. truth bomb.


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