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solo attempt on space shot
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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

Yo peeps!
I am thinking I am gonna go try to solo spaceshot next month. Looking for any beta on the upper pitches mainly the two before earth orbit and the descent. I have been on the route before but not up onto the headwall.
Any info or words of encouragment would be cool. This will be my first wall solo so I am pretty siked on the attempt.
Cheerios!


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By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2008
...

Is there a reason you are yelling?


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

John J. Glime wrote:
Is there a reason you are yelling?


Is there a reason you have K.Y. jelly rubbed all over your chest in your photo? :-)

You must be one of those sensative folks that thinks all caps means your being belittled.
SORRY!


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

The two pitches before Earth Orbit are super straight forward for aid climbing and pretty moderate (5.10) for free climbing. It's just a bunch of leap frogging cams. Enjoy. It seems to be a great solo.


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

Michael Schneiter wrote:
The two pitches before Earth Orbit are super straight forward for aid climbing and pretty moderate (5.10) for free climbing. It's just a bunch of leap frogging cams. Enjoy. It seems to be a great solo.



Thanks for the beta Michael. and for not thinking im yelling :)

I have heard it is a great solo aswell. We shall see.
Cheers,


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By Trevor
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Feb 20, 2008
Solo Ascent - October 21, 2008 - taken from Scout's Lookout

#2 camalots


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Feb 20, 2008
Artist Tears P3

Get yourself a good rope bag such as the Fish Snake Charmer. They make rope management while soloing a dream.

ropebag <br />
ropebag



Triple set of cams, couple sets of wires, some offsets, small tricams and you should be fine.

Otherwise kept systems as simple as possible and have fun. Big wall soloing is a blast.


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

Here's a funny story from a friend who tried to solo the route a number of years ago. He thought he would pull off a night solo during July's hot temperatures. When he started up at 9 P.M. it was still 96 degrees. His plan was to free solo the first three pitches to the base of the headwall. Topping out on the ledge below the headwall he tried to mantle but his rope, trailed behind him, seemed to have snagged on something and offered great resistance. He pressed really hard, trying to make the final mantle. Harder and harder he pressed as the rope stretched against him. Suddenly, the force was released and he promptly stood on the ledge. He had just enough time to train his headlamp on the rope as it whipped through space and into the bushes below. The rope was clipped to one of his gear loops, not the full strength loop on the back of his Yates big wall harness. The gear loop ripped out, depositing all of its contents, including the rope. Certainly a lesson in the strength of gear loops.

After down soloing to retrieve his rope, two pitches below, and then re-soloing to the base of the headwall, he sat there, dripping in sweat in the 96 degree heat. He looked down at his car and thought of his girlfriend, waiting for him at camp, and made the rappels.

I get a kick out of that story. SAL, I'm sure your solo will go much better.


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Feb 20, 2008
Artist Tears P3

Also check out the piece in climbing mag 180 by Kathy Dicker. Its a classic wall solo story.


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By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2008
...

SAL wrote:
Is there a reason you have K.Y. jelly rubbed all over your chest in your photo? :-) You must be one of those sensative folks that thinks all caps means your being belittled. SORRY!


1st, that isn't KY ;) did you miss the fluffer part?

2nd, I don't feel belittled, the way you titled the thread, I was expecting you to be announcing to the world that you were planning a free solo, not a 5.8 C2 aid solo... but now that you put it out there in caps, be sure to update us with a trip report.


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

John J. Glime wrote:
1st, that isn't KY ;) did you miss the fluffer part? 2nd, I don't feel belittled, the way you titled the thread, I was expecting you to be announcing to the world that you were planning a free solo, not a 5.8 C2 aid solo... but now that you put it out there in caps, be sure to update us with a trip report.


:) all smiles.
1. I never look that closely to photos men with thier shirts off. MOst likely the banner said somthing just as bad as your greasy chest :)
2. I work in all caps. Plus it stands out. I post for beta. If you want a response, take it to the limit. No one will miss my post that way and I will recieve great beta like everyone but you has already added to the thread :)

3. I will give you a trip report if you change your photo :)


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

John McNamee wrote:
Also check out the piece in climbing mag 180 by Kathy Dicker. Its a classic wall solo story.


Hey JOhn,

I have that article in hand. That is what started this brigade.
I have a few of the BD speed bags which great for rope bags.
Thanks for you input and photo.
YOur geat selection matches pretty much dead on from what I thought. Thanks for that aswell.
Happy CLimbing.


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

Michael Schneiter wrote:
Here's a funny story from a friend who tried to solo the route a number of years ago. He thought he would pull off a night solo during July's hot temperatures. When he started up at 9 P.M. it was still 96 degrees. His plan was to free solo the first three pitches to the base of the headwall. Topping out on the ledge below the headwall he tried to mantle but his rope, trailed behind him, seemed to have snagged on something and offered great resistance. He pressed really hard, trying to make the final mantle. Harder and harder he pressed as the rope stretched against him. Suddenly, the force was released and he promptly stood on the ledge. He had just enough time to train his headlamp on the rope as it whipped through space and into the bushes below. The rope was clipped to one of his gear loops, not the full strength loop on the back of his Yates big wall harness. The gear loop ripped out, depositing all of its contents, including the rope. Certainly a lesson in the strength of gear loops. After down soloing to retrieve his rope, two pitches below, and then re-soloing to the base of the headwall, he sat there, dripping in sweat in the 96 degree heat. He looked down at his car and thought of his girlfriend, waiting for him at camp, and made the rappels. I get a kick out of that story. SAL, I'm sure your solo will go much better.


HA! Thats funny. I plan to free solo the first 3 aswell.
I will try to make sure i clip my proper loop :)
CLassic.
Did he ever go back to finish?
If not hopefully you posting his story will light his fire again. hahaha.
thanks yall.


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By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2008
...

SAL wrote:
and I will recieve great beta like everyone but you has already added to the thread


FINE... THE CRUXES ON THE FOURTH AND FIFTH PITCHES ARE SEMI HARD. FINDING PRO THAT WILL WORK TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF EFFORT.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 20, 2008

It's pretty much just pushing cams in front of you. I think I remember a lot of 1.5 Friend, but it's been a while. Basically just clip a few cams of similar size on one biner, attach to the end of each aider and push. Easy as pie.

I think the descent is pretty straightforward. We had heard it was epic and had zero problems. I don't want to give you specifics though because it's been a while. Several raps though, including one that lands on a sandy ledge that you have to scramble down to the end of to reach the next set of anchors. Probably wouldn't want to do it in the dark for the first time but otherwise it's fine.


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

John J. Glime wrote:
FINE... THE CRUXES ON THE FOURTH AND FIFTH PITCHES ARE SEMI HARD. FINDING PRO THAT WILL WORK TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF EFFORT.


:)
Thanks. I really appreciate you using a tone I could hear :)
I am in another state after all :)hahahah. And I changed my font just for you :)
Cheers Mr. Glime!


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By Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2008
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum with my wife.

SAL wrote:
Did he ever go back to finish?

Sadly no. A few years after that he pretty much dropped out of climbing due to a serious back injury. Major bummer!


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By Caleb Padgett
From Rockville, utah
Feb 20, 2008

I solo's spaceshot this last october. This was me second solo, after moonlight. Here are some tips I would recomend. I freesolo'd the first "approach" pitch and roped up for the second pitch. There is one insecure chimney move that would be a little heady to solo, it was dark when I did it but would recomend at least a daisy with a few cams on it. I then solo'd up to the base of the bolt ladder. This took about an hour to get here from my car with all my gear. I carried a small backpack that I used for a rope back for my trail line that had water and food in it. The pack was light and I just jugged wearing it. The "crux" pitch is really not that bad, the red and orange tcu were clutch as were brass nuts. The upper cracks are super straightforward c1. When rapping the pitch to clean I re clipped most pieces at the pitches traverse some. I thought the last pitch was the crux. The anchor is a single bolt and I managed to get the smallest alien next to it as my anchor. You free off this anchor and then I clove hitched the first couple bolts to back up the original. Definitely not ideal. there is a fixed piece when pulling the roof on this pitch that is gone. I did two very very delicate offset nut moves to get to the bold. It is very awkward as your feet are below the roof and it is hard to balance, not to mention the somewhat marginal anchor and the exposure. Wear your free shoes on this pitch are there is some to do at the beginning and end. I topped out after 10 hours leaving my car at what seemed to be an average pace, not pushing it by any means. The first time I did the descent was after climbing equinox. It was dark and we had one headlamp between 3 people. kinda challenging but doable. in the light is ideal... to find the tree to rap off of you trend slightly climbers right but mostly back away from the wall. There are cairns but you traverse slickrock that is somewhat steep but not too bad. After the first rappell you traverse climbers right then after the 4th rappel you travers climbers right again. hope this helps, have fun


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 20, 2008
good times. <br />

John McNamee wrote:
Also check out the piece in climbing mag 180 by Kathy Dicker. Its a classic wall solo story.



John,
Did you bring a ledge or use naturals? I was thinking I would bivy at the base of the head wall then fix and fire to earth orbit. From there top out. Is earth orbit a descent place to sleep?
I understand that I am there to suffer :) If I can lay down I consider that quality rather then hauling a ledge with me.
Cheers,


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By John J. Glime
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2008
...

Caleb Padgett wrote:
I topped out after 10 hours leaving my car at what seemed to be an average pace, not pushing it by any means.


Bullshit. You are a stud, don't kid yourself. Soloing Spaceshot in 10 hours is not even close to average. Bravo.


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By Tea
Feb 20, 2008
just Jong it!

earth orbit is fine for one, though a tad slopey...though if you can finish the last pitch..the bivy on top is way better. good luck. Enjoy the "spaceshot" cleaning the last pitch. it's airy.


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By Caleb Padgett
From Rockville, utah
Feb 21, 2008

Earth orbit seemed like it would be a great bivy if you had a ledge. it is kinda slopey and bivying on top would be way better. it would do in a pinch if you were running out of daylight though. be careful getting your pig across the ledge to haul to the top. when you get to earth orbit there are no anchors to fix off of and you build an anchor. if I had a pig I would leave the gear anchor and traverse the 30' to the bolt and fix a hand line to get your bag over. the single bolt anchor could use another one to really make it legit as the crack is really small and only takes a microcam. In retrospect I would have taken two cams in the smallest alien or tcu size to get a better anchor built


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By SAL
From broomdigiddy
Feb 21, 2008
good times. <br />

Caleb Padgett wrote:
Earth orbit seemed like it would be a great bivy if you had a ledge. it is kinda slopey and bivying on top would be way better. it would do in a pinch if you were running out of daylight though. be careful getting your pig across the ledge to haul to the top. when you get to earth orbit there are no anchors to fix off of and you build an anchor. if I had a pig I would leave the gear anchor and traverse the 30' to the bolt and fix a hand line to get your bag over. the single bolt anchor could use another one to really make it legit as the crack is really small and only takes a microcam. In retrospect I would have taken two cams in the smallest alien or tcu size to get a better anchor built


Are you referring to an intermediate belay at the base of the final bolt ladder? Basically dividing the pitch for rope drag and the traverse? So the crux would just be to move myself and the pig to the bolt ladder before leading the final up so the haul is not so epic. I thnk that maybe what your talking about. Or maybe you are saying there are NO fixed anchors at all on earth orbit and the first fixed piece you hit is the first bolt or pin of the ladder.
???


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By Kartch
From Belgrade, MT
Feb 21, 2008

Right on SpaceShot should be a good solo. I'd take a few extra .75 and #2 cams. Jumping off the last ledge while cleaning the last pitch my clean your drawers after a day of soloing. It's crappy enough when you have a partner but that's part of the fun.

Ryan had some good soloing tips on Supertopo:
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=58030&msg=58>>>


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By Caleb Padgett
From Rockville, utah
Feb 21, 2008

The only "fixed" anchor on earth orbit is a single bolt. it really is not the first bolt of the ladder as it is still on the ledge about waist level. This can be backed up with mircocams but I clove hitched the first two bolts in the ladder to get a better anchor. Due to the number of soloists that do this route I am surprised this anchor has not bet beefed up with another bolt. either way you will want your haulbag at this bolt before your start hauling.


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Feb 21, 2008

SO I haven't solo'ed anything in Zion, but I have solo'ed several walls in the past and thought I would add some thoughts to this conversation. If you plan to haul for a single bivy near the top of the wall I would have to say you are nuts....hauling triples the time it takes to rope solo a wall. Hauling is the difference between moving quickly and experiencing the freedom of soloing and SUFFERING!

Some examples:

Soloed The Prow in 3 days car to car vs soloed South Face of the Column in 12 hours ctc. It took me over 8 hours to ferry loads down the North Dome gully, vs running down in 2 hours.

Soloed the freeblast in 6 hours, picked up the haulbag (prehauled) and took the rest of the day to get 3 pitches to Hollow flake ledge.


So if you can make it to earth orbit hauling you can DEFINATELY make it to the top without. Start practicing jugging with a backpack, and learn how to unweight the pack on your upper jumar. You will have a lot more fun, and your hips will thank you.


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