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Solo aiding without a GriGri
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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Mar 14, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

so, I understand the solo aid climbing process with a grigri or other device. if you fall you are ideally caught by an autolocking device, but, should that fail, you are caught with a backup knot. I'm thinking, because I don't have any money to spend, of just pretying knots in the rope, and carrying it all in a backpack as I climb, with 2 biners on my harness to clip into the knots with every 10 feet. keep in mind this would be on easy (C1-C1+) aid. what is the best knot to use in this scenario? butterfly? fig. 8 on a bight? clovehitch? it's pretty much impossible to untie a fallen on clovehitch, so I'm leaning away from that.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 15, 2010
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

first off, dont fall when you rope solo.

second, a clove is probably best, though slow option if you arent going to use a soloist or silent partner (silent partner uses a clove hitch anyway)

besides, somethings wrong if you fall on C1 aid.

and lastly. dont skimp on safety based on finances.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Mar 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

I won't be falling, but just as a precaution I thought I'd use a rope. I've aidied in my climbing gym, clipping bolts, several times, so I know the basic aid sequence. I don't really want to drag anyone to belay me for several hours while I flail up a aid pitch. I trad climb extensively so I know how to place gear, I ain't no tard.


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By Brian in SLC
Mar 15, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
I won't be falling, but just as a precaution I thought I'd use a rope.


Try a clove hitch on two carabiners (one locking, one not). That's one hitch, on two biners.

Much easier to feed slack. Also much easier to break apart the hitch if you load it.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Mar 15, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

good call Brian, thanks, I'll give that technique a try.


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By CalmAdrenaline
From SL,UT
Mar 16, 2010
Oregon Coast Bouldering

www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/324/USHBA-ASCENDER-BASIC-A>>>

I use one of these for all of my rope solo exploits, feeds smoothly, and efficiently as you climb. This, I feel, is better than tying ten foot sections of knots, or a clove hitch, you can tie just enough knots so you dont deck, allowing you to concentrate on the movements and what your doing rather than fawkin around with inefficiently feeding knots, and avoiding the massive dynamic loads that would be generated were you to fall ten feet onto a static anchor.


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By Brian in SLC
Mar 16, 2010
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

CalmAdrenaline wrote:
www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/324/USHBA-ASCENDER-BASIC-A>>> I use one of these for all of my rope solo exploits, feeds smoothly, and efficiently as you climb. This, I feel, is better than tying ten foot sections of knots, or a clove hitch, you can tie just enough knots so you dont deck, allowing you to concentrate on the movements and what your doing rather than fawkin around with inefficiently feeding knots, and avoiding the massive dynamic loads that would be generated were you to fall ten feet onto a static anchor.


Was testing in England done, either by the BMC and/or some industrial safety folks, on the ability of an USHBA basic to handle a dropped load. Failed at a very low force. Very low, ie, lower than you'd generate in a leader fall.

I think both the rope was damaged as well as the unit.

I use one for self belay on a top rope, but, I wouldn't use one to solo lead climb with.

YMMV.


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By CalmAdrenaline
From SL,UT
Mar 16, 2010
Oregon Coast Bouldering

Brian in SLC wrote:
Was testing in England done, either by the BMC and/or some industrial safety folks, on the ability of an USHBA basic to handle a dropped load. Failed at a very low force. Very low, ie, lower than you'd generate in a leader fall. I think both the rope was damaged as well as the unit. I use one for self belay on a top rope, but, I wouldn't use one to solo lead climb with. YMMV.


Im pretty tired this morning haha, I missed the part about leading with it, yes, I do use mine for toprope soloing.. NOT lead. Thanks for clearing that up Brian.


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