Mountain Project Logo

Solo aiding without a GriGri

Original Post
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

so, I understand the solo aid climbing process with a grigri or other device. if you fall you are ideally caught by an autolocking device, but, should that fail, you are caught with a backup knot. I'm thinking, because I don't have any money to spend, of just pretying knots in the rope, and carrying it all in a backpack as I climb, with 2 biners on my harness to clip into the knots with every 10 feet. keep in mind this would be on easy (C1-C1+) aid. what is the best knot to use in this scenario? butterfly? fig. 8 on a bight? clovehitch? it's pretty much impossible to untie a fallen on clovehitch, so I'm leaning away from that.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

first off, dont fall when you rope solo.

second, a clove is probably best, though slow option if you arent going to use a soloist or silent partner (silent partner uses a clove hitch anyway)

besides, somethings wrong if you fall on C1 aid.

and lastly. dont skimp on safety based on finances.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

I won't be falling, but just as a precaution I thought I'd use a rope. I've aidied in my climbing gym, clipping bolts, several times, so I know the basic aid sequence. I don't really want to drag anyone to belay me for several hours while I flail up a aid pitch. I trad climb extensively so I know how to place gear, I ain't no tard.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Keenan Waeschle wrote:I won't be falling, but just as a precaution I thought I'd use a rope.
Try a clove hitch on two carabiners (one locking, one not). That's one hitch, on two biners.

Much easier to feed slack. Also much easier to break apart the hitch if you load it.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

good call Brian, thanks, I'll give that technique a try.

CalmAdrenaline · · SL,UT · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 115
rockandsnow.com/store/produ…

I use one of these for all of my rope solo exploits, feeds smoothly, and efficiently as you climb. This, I feel, is better than tying ten foot sections of knots, or a clove hitch, you can tie just enough knots so you dont deck, allowing you to concentrate on the movements and what your doing rather than fawkin around with inefficiently feeding knots, and avoiding the massive dynamic loads that would be generated were you to fall ten feet onto a static anchor.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
CalmAdrenaline wrote:http://www.rockandsnow.com/store/product/324/USHBA-ASCENDER-BASIC-ALU./ I use one of these for all of my rope solo exploits, feeds smoothly, and efficiently as you climb. This, I feel, is better than tying ten foot sections of knots, or a clove hitch, you can tie just enough knots so you dont deck, allowing you to concentrate on the movements and what your doing rather than fawkin around with inefficiently feeding knots, and avoiding the massive dynamic loads that would be generated were you to fall ten feet onto a static anchor.
Was testing in England done, either by the BMC and/or some industrial safety folks, on the ability of an USHBA basic to handle a dropped load. Failed at a very low force. Very low, ie, lower than you'd generate in a leader fall.

I think both the rope was damaged as well as the unit.

I use one for self belay on a top rope, but, I wouldn't use one to solo lead climb with.

YMMV.
CalmAdrenaline · · SL,UT · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 115
Brian in SLC wrote: Was testing in England done, either by the BMC and/or some industrial safety folks, on the ability of an USHBA basic to handle a dropped load. Failed at a very low force. Very low, ie, lower than you'd generate in a leader fall. I think both the rope was damaged as well as the unit. I use one for self belay on a top rope, but, I wouldn't use one to solo lead climb with. YMMV.
Im pretty tired this morning haha, I missed the part about leading with it, yes, I do use mine for toprope soloing.. NOT lead. Thanks for clearing that up Brian.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Solo aiding without a GriGri"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.