Solitude
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 17 votes
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011 |
Page Views: | 4,311 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.
For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.
Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.
p3 variations: Go left up the low angle ramp to a corner crack that starts with fingers and ends with hands (5.9). From the alcove, two options are possible. 1) Move right onto the face at a bolt and follow a horizontal thin crack (5.10c) for a few feet until possible to climb the face to the belay. 2) Climb cracks at the back of the alcove to the belay (5.9).
For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.
The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)
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