Solitude 5.11c/d
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011 |
| Submitted By: | Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Solitude. Numbers mark the pitches. "B...
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Description Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.
For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.
Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.
For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.
The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)
Location Same as for Peanuts to Serve You. Just right of Bowling to Biscuits, and just left of the Bobcat Cringe. See the beta photo at right for details.
Protection Triple set of nuts to 1/2", several 3/4"-1" nuts, and a Camalot single set to 3.5, with doubles in sizes 0.5 to 1.
Derek following Peanuts (pitch 1).
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Jon at the crux of pitch 2.
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Derek on pitch 5. He is at the 10b crux of the low...
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Jon, just past the crux section on pitch 5.
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Solitude (by Derek Pearson).
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BETA PHOTO: This pitch is P1 of Solitude and can be linked wit...
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BETA PHOTO: Solitude
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BETA PHOTO: First part of the last pitch of Solitude.
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BETA PHOTO: 11a section on Solitude's last pitch.
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Upper part of the last pitch of Solitude (5.11c). ...
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By derekpearson
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d
| Two bolts were added to the fourth pitch. All belays have chain. At the end of the fourth pitch move belay to the base of the next corner for less drag. The fifth pitch is long. |
By michal
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral i estimate clocks in at 11d classic pitch all day |
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Dec 7, 2011
| "Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral..."
I haven't tried it. It looks nice, but when we were there it seemed a little dirty.
From the belay to the 11d traverse-right part, how hard was the corner?
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