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Solitude T 

Solitude 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, 7/24, 2011
Page Views: 1,171
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Sep 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Solitude. Numbers mark the pitches. &q...

Description 

Start by doing Peanuts to serve you as pitch 1.

For pitch 2, continue up the corner, then take the finger-to-hand crack up and left (crux) to a 3-bolt belay on a nice ledge (10d-11a). Short, but pumpy. You can combine this with pitch 1.

Pitch 3 is the route's overall crux, going up right in a crack that starts wide, but quickly narrows to finger pockets (11a/b). The crack reaches a left-tilting overlap, which starts with a hand pod, but quickly narrows to fingertips (11c/d). After going left for about 25', the crack goes vertical (5.9) and ends on a forested ledge.

For pitch 4, Go up and right through the forest to a cave, and take the short chimney on the left (5.9 entry move, two bolts) to a comfortable, grassy belay stance below a large corner.

The last pitch, pitch 5, is long and sustained. Take the lower-angle ramp/thin corner up and right of the large corner (10b), enter the steeper corner above (11a), and at the top of this corner, go straight up to another corner that goes left. Mantle the ledge on top, go up and left. For the last 10 feet, clip a bolt and do a one-move dyno for the top (incut!)

Location 

Same as for Peanuts to Serve You. Just right of Bowling to Biscuits, and just left of the Bobcat Cringe. See the beta photo at right for details.

Protection 

Triple set of nuts to 1/2", several 3/4"-1" nuts, and a Camalot single set to 3.5, with doubles in sizes 0.5 to 1.


Photos of Solitude Slideshow Add Photo
Solitude
BETA PHOTO: Solitude
Derek following Peanuts (pitch 1).
Derek following Peanuts (pitch 1).
Jon at the crux of pitch 2.
Jon at the crux of pitch 2.
11a section on Solitude's last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: 11a section on Solitude's last pitch.
Derek on pitch 5. He is at the 10b crux of the lower ramp/corner. The bottom of the steeper corner just above has the crux.
Derek on pitch 5. He is at the 10b crux of the low...
This pitch is P1 of Solitude and can be linked with Peanuts to Serve You.
BETA PHOTO: This pitch is P1 of Solitude and can be linked wit...
Jon, just past the crux section on pitch 5.
Jon, just past the crux section on pitch 5.
First part of the last pitch of Solitude.
BETA PHOTO: First part of the last pitch of Solitude.
Topo of Solitude (by Derek Pearson).
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Solitude (by Derek Pearson).
Upper part of the last pitch of Solitude (5.11c). This pitch is 11a, mainly following a series of corners, but ending with a high-step dyno for the incut top of the wall. The last move is protected by a bolt.
Upper part of the last pitch of Solitude (5.11c). ...

Comments on Solitude Add Comment
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By derekpearson
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Two bolts were added to the fourth pitch. All belays have chain. At the end of the fourth pitch move belay to the base of the next corner for less drag. The fifth pitch is long.
By michal
From: Everett WA
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral i estimate clocks in at 11d classic pitch all day
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Dec 7, 2011

"Went up project pitch on pitch 5 and its not easy breaking back right to 11a dihedral..."

I haven't tried it. It looks nice, but when we were there it seemed a little dirty.

From the belay to the 11d traverse-right part, how hard was the corner?

By wayne wallace
Sep 15, 2014

Great line, thanks Derrick and nice to meet you! I thought the grades on the pitches were fair, but there would be no way I could free the crux with my fat fingers. Couldnt even get them past my fingernails in the crack. I think this route is with up there with Serenity Crack as one of the coolest multi-pitch thin routes in the west. I liked it better even. Cant wait to repeat it!
By derekpearson
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

That's Awesome Wayne thanks !
By blakeherrington
Sep 29, 2014

Thanks for all the hard work scrubbing these pitches, they were fun! The topo and rack both seem a bit off. On P3, where two spots of .11c are marked. I'd call the second spot easily 2 or 3 letter grades harder than the first. The crux is a short boulder problem in the middle of a short pitch, but it felt maybe V4-V5, and for a rack, I'd say leave all the stoppers behind (3 sets suggested?) and bring a double set of cams from blue alien to red alien, with singles of .75-#3 or #4 (the only spot where you might want #3 or #4 is on the 5.9 starting section).
By derekpearson
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

All the nuts and cams are for the final pitch . I agree its hard I like the v rating Blake. The first onsight is still open I think . This is index not LA ! (This is the name of a possible .13 at lookout) thank you for all the insight. Your welcome !