Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches
FA: Peter Noebels, Paul Davidson 1980's, FFA J. Reeves, T. Matimoe, B. Hemple 2023
Page Views: 1,867 total · 11/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Apr 10, 2010 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Closed January 1-April 30 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This probably isn't the exact way the FA was done, but it definitely works and gets you into the sweet 250' crack leading to the final bulge. I think the "Free For All Variation" in Kerry's Book was also an attempt to climb the original line.

1. About 130’ up is a short, right-leaning, right-facing corner with a blocky, horizontal, quartz band at the base. Climb cracks to base of corner. Step left a few feet and belay on small ledge at base of cracks. (The follower cleaned a loose block that was blocking access to the corner. It looks like a fun corner but I don’t know if you’d have enough rope to finish it in the first pitch and find a good belay.) (5.9 140'’)

2. Climb cracks, then up wandery face to big sloping ledge. (5.9+ 110’')

3. From left end of ledge, step to corner and follow thin crack up ~15’ until possible to traverse left (5.10a) to the base of a long, beautiful crack. (I think the original line traversed left, even with the belay ledge.) There is a bolt below the start of the crack that may be from the “Free For All Variation” in Kerry’s book. Climb amazing crack on excellent rock as far as you can and belay. (5.10a 180’)

4. Continue up crack to steepening face. Original line seems to be blocked by agave. We stepped left and zig-zagged up steep, gritty face to big ledge at base of final corner. (5.10 150'’)

5. Climb corner to bolt on bulge. Now freed at ~10+  (100'’)

Descent Suggest change

We looked for the raps in Kerry’s book but decided on this alternative: From top of climb we continued past main summit to a small saddle, (the last one before the crumbly, knife-edge saddle,) where we could scramble down right (southeast) on the backside to a small tree. 180’ rap to 3 fixed stoppers. Lots of friction on this first pull! Then half-rope rap to ground. Hike down steep gullies along south face to base of climb. (If you stay close to the rock, like we did, you’ll have to make one more 40’ rap off tree.)

Protection Suggest change

We took lots of stoppers, some tiny cams, doubles to #3 cam, and a #4(probably don't need that.)

Photos

loading