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Good page? (1 like)
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12- [details]|
|FA: ||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010|
Manhandling the Black Diamond hold.
For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of flagstaff's more classic sport routes, and one of the most beautiful...
Start by small pine tree on the right side of the squaty pillar, just up hill from Man on the Moon. Surf through a large weakness, via jugs, to the first bulge. Eye your footholds on the right, below the bulge, because they will disappear all too quickly as you start to move up. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking (there are a hundred ways to do these moves, but only a couple good ones), will see you through to a good shake below the roof. Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake up and to your right.... Keep cranking for another good 20' past more powerful moves and excellent holds, until eventually the grade backs off a bit. Enjoy the solitude as you technically work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.
Left hand side of black streaks.
60 meter rope, 2 long draws (not runners),and 10 regular draws will do the trick. For the best rope run, I put long draws on bolts 4 and 8. This helps the rope skirt the bulge as much as possible.
Jeff pulling through the last of the crux moves on...
Wade pulling into the crux and blending in with hi...
Colin Cox just getting into the hard bit.
Jeffrey Snyder giving Solitaire a big thumb up!
JJ on Solitaire
Wade Forrest on Solitaire
David Daily getting a little alone time...
|By Joel Unema|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 27, 2011
Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux.
|By Abel Jones|
From: Hickory, NC
Apr 25, 2011
This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux!