Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Faint Horizon S 
Assassin , The S 
Continental Drift S 
Hermit, The S 
Holy Roller S 
Lucky Old Sun S 
Man On the Moon S 
Scythe, The S 
Slipstream S 
Solitaire S 
Whiplash S 

Solitaire 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 3,098
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jim pulling the roof.

Description 

For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of Flagstaff's more classic sport routes, and one of the most beautiful...

Start by small pine tree on the right side of the squaty pillar, just up hill from Man on the Moon. Surf through a large weakness filled with jugs to the first bulge. Eye your footholds on the right, below the bulge, because they will disappear all too quickly as you start to move up. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking (there are a hundred ways to do these moves, but only a couple good ones), will see you through to a good shake below the roof.

Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake up and to your right.... At this point a closed project breaks off right, Solitaire moves up and left climbing on the left margin of the black streak. Eventually the grade backs off a bit so enjoy the solitude as you technically work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.

Location 

Left hand side of black streaks.

Protection 

Bolts 5, 6, and 7 have chain draws. A full length runner on bolt 4 is nice. Long draws are nice as well for the rest of the route.


Photos of Solitaire Slideshow Add Photo
Colin Cox just getting into the hard bit.
Colin Cox just getting into the hard bit.
Manhandling the Black Diamond hold.
Manhandling the Black Diamond hold.
Jeff pulling through the last of the crux moves on...
Jeff pulling through the last of the crux moves on...
Wade pulling into the crux and blending in with hi...
Wade pulling into the crux and blending in with hi...
...
...
David Daily getting a little alone time...
David Daily getting a little alone time...
Wade Forrest on Solitaire
Wade Forrest on Solitaire
JJ on Solitaire
JJ on Solitaire
...
...
Jeffrey Snyder giving Solitaire a big thumb up!
Jeffrey Snyder giving Solitaire a big thumb up!
Wade making the move... tamarahastie.com
Wade making the move... tamarahastie.com

Comments on Solitaire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux.
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 25, 2011

This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux!
By RyanJames
Mar 21, 2012

One word: Classic!!!