Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Borneo
Select Route:
Bolts for Bob S 
Bushwhacker S,TR 
Pelican's Dyke S 
Solitaire S 
Spinal Tap S 

Solitaire 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Vernon Phinney '87
Page Views: 3,992
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
looking for a breeze up top
Check NPS for Closures

Description 

Follow the rock down & around to the left. As the ground starts rising a water chute runs up the rock on the right.

Climb up the chute with some big crystals to help you out, clipping bolts as you find them. Once you get on 'top' the bolts end and you get to scramble on easy rock to the summit block. Stand up & clip the bolt on the summit block, pull the final move(s) to the summit and anchors.

Note that the route is rather 'runout' and exposed getting to the last bolt, even though it's probably only 4th class. Not your typical sport climb.

From the top anchors, rap down the face that holds Pelican's Dyke and Xenophenia. If you're so inclined, set up a TR before coming down...


Protection 

5 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor on top.

Does the rap require a 60m?



Photos of Solitaire Slideshow Add Photo
"The Move".  Fun!  Esp. after working 12 days straight and driving all night to get there...  Photo by Jay.  June 08.
"The Move". Fun! Esp. after working 12 days stra...
Aaron nearing the end of Solitaire.
Aaron nearing the end of Solitaire.
Lower portion of Solitaire.
Lower portion of Solitaire.
Lenore Sobota contemplating crux move just below the new anchors
Lenore Sobota contemplating crux move just below t...
Queen Shauna "levitates" her way up the dyke on Solitaire...
Queen Shauna "levitates" her way up the dyke on So...
Nutz reaches for a little "powdered confidence"...
Nutz reaches for a little "powdered confidence"...
The crux move...
The crux move...
Tanner pinches his first Black Hills crystals on Solitaire...
Tanner pinches his first Black Hills crystals on S...
Lenore Sobota approaching the run out area. Note double runner w/quickdraw slung over horn for protection.
BETA PHOTO: Lenore Sobota approaching the run out area. Note d...
The left leg says it all... where the HELL are the cracks?
The left leg says it all... where the HELL are the...
Nice new replacement bolts on the route
Nice new replacement bolts on the route
Cheryl attempts the crux on her highest Black Hills summit...
Cheryl attempts the crux on her highest Black Hill...
Solitare, a little runout on the traverse
BETA PHOTO: Solitare, a little runout on the traverse
Comments on Solitaire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2002

The runout 4th class bit is very exposed, but can be protected with stoppers if I remember correctly. The first move after clipping the last bolt is *much* harder than the rest of the climb.

This is one of the best routes at Rushmore.

By Joanthan Schumacher
Oct 1, 2002

Great climb! The water chute is fun, and the flakes near the top are interesting. I think I slung a flake or two. The move above the last bolt was, for me, the crux. It is a very fun, different type of climb. Enjoy!

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 10, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I led this climb on two different trips this year. It's great fun and I try to lead it every year. You can protect yourself and your second by slinging a couple of horns on the runout arete before reaching the summit block. I was very happy to see a new 3/4 bolt protecting the move up the summit block, which is very committing and exposed.

By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Mar 13, 2004

Yes, use at least 60m rope

By z-rock
Aug 13, 2006

I think this climbi is harder than 5.7 I'd bring a set of stoppers with me and some trad draws to avoid rope drag. The crux is the move at the last bolt. very fun climb!!!

By Cameron Luth
Aug 16, 2007

This climb is spectacular. The crux is really fun but, messes with you a little bit the first time you climb it because you are standing on a nice pedistal then you have to go into the face. Well worth the time every time you visit rushmore.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Oct 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I led the route this year on 9/29 and found a new bolt/rap anchor system has been placed just below the actual summit of the climb. I and my second rapped using only a 165 foot rope, but we had to traverse to the right as you face the ground and downclimb the last few feet of the trough.