Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | R. Briggs and M. Hesse, 1973 |
Page Views: | 722 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 11, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
The climb is a borderline 2* climb at present, after we cleaned lots of saucer and plate sized flakes of rock from the crack. The climb is nicer now that it was yesterday, we are sure. With a little more effort in ridding the line of junk rock, the climb will be more pleasant.
While the climb is best remembered for the top dihedral, a quality section perhaps only 1/3 of the length, the crux lies more probably in the initial leaning crack, on a step-right move, just a few moved below the dihedral. This section is only protected so well and is not bomber overhead gear. As such, the route is NOT appropriate for people pushing their limits on 5.8.
While the climb is best remembered for the top dihedral, a quality section perhaps only 1/3 of the length, the crux lies more probably in the initial leaning crack, on a step-right move, just a few moved below the dihedral. This section is only protected so well and is not bomber overhead gear. As such, the route is NOT appropriate for people pushing their limits on 5.8.
Location
There is a wide gully on the South side of the Skunk Canyon drainange, between the Dreadnaught and the North Ridge. This is on the West side of the Dreadnaught. Hike up the hill for some distance until the rock is a distinct ridge on both sides, to the East and West. Soon after this point, you will the first and only major, left-facing dihedral system on the wall, looming overhead. To approach this, go uphill to directly below the corner, walk back along the base of the rock 10-15 meters to the North, then up and onto a low angle ramp with a few trees on it. From the base of the second tree, you can see a right-leaning crack that ascends to the base of the hanging dihedral and completes a crack system that goes up to a fixed webbing anchor. This is 'Solid State.'
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