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Dreadnaught
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Dreadnaught, The T 
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Solid State 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: R. Briggs and M. Hesse, 1973
Season: Gets PM sun
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2007

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  • Description 

    The climb is a borderline 2* climb at present, after we cleaned lots of saucer and plate sized flakes of rock from the crack. The climb is nicer now that it was yesterday, we are sure. With a little more effort in ridding the line of junk rock, the climb will be more pleasant.

    While the climb is best remembered for the top dihedral, a quality section perhaps only 1/3 of the length, the crux lies more probably in the initial leaning crack, on a step-right move, just a few moved below the dihedral. This section is only protected so well and is not bomber overhead gear. As such, the route is NOT appropriate for people pushing their limits on 5.8.


    Location 

    There is a wide gully on the South side of the Skunk Canyon drainange, between the Dreadnaught and the North Ridge. This is on the West side of the Dreadnaught. Hike up the hill for some distance until the rock is a distinct ridge on both sides, to the East and West. Soon after this point, you will the first and only major, left-facing dihedral system on the wall, looming overhead. To approach this, go uphill to directly below the corner, walk back along the base of the rock 10-15 meters to the North, then up and onto a low angle ramp with a few trees on it. From the base of the second tree, you can see a right-leaning crack that ascends to the base of the hanging dihedral and completes a crack system that goes up to a fixed webbing anchor. This is 'Solid State.'


    Protection 

    A set of cams and large nuts. Extra cams 2-3" might be nice. Watch out for your placements, the initial crack has some flakes in it that could pop out and spit out your placements in a fall.



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