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First pitch of Solid Gold
The rock is perfect and so are the surroundings. Solid Gold is an excellent route at a moderate length offering a nice alpine challenge.
Many feel that that the first pitch is the crux although not the technical crux of the climb.
Start right of the outside corner on the left flank of the face.
Gear to 4 inches is nice for the 10a off-width.
BETA PHOTO: The .10d fingers at the end of the first pitch
Brilliant .10d fingers on the 4th pitch.
BETA PHOTO: The sweet hand crack above the roof on the 2nd pit...
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Central Oregon
May 24, 2012
The pitch breakdowns given in the book are pretty vague and do a poor job of indicating when to stop and belay. If I were to do it again I'd do the following: (ignore if you're into adventure onsighting)
P1, 10d-Right leaning crack system to under the roof. Obvious and hard to miss.
P2, 11a-(but feels a lot like the 10d) step out and right under the roof and follow the corner to a long #3 camalot-sized horizontal. Belay on gear while standing in the horizontal.
P3, 10a-Link the next pitch to the slab with the 5.8 above. Be careful in the chimney exiting the slab as there's some rotten rock. Follow the seam arcing left on the left wall of the chimney. Belay on a large ledge at the base of the aesthetic last pitch.
P4, 11a-(feels soft) Yes, you get to climb the perfect corner crack above your head. Climb up the corner on small gear for 50ish feet eventually stepping right to a small tree below the crest of the W. Ridge. If you're good about your drag and have enough gear, keep going to the ridge top where you can rap the back side or carry on the summit.
We didn't bring a four and didn't feel a lack for it. This route is a super classic must do.