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The second pitch of this climb is one of the most classic pitches at Seneca! Amazingly, it was first done in 1951! P1: Climb the wide corner/flake sytem to reach a left trending ramp. The first 30 feet can be a bit runout unless you have very large gear. However, with modern camming units, there is gear that can be found in the flake if you search hard for it. Don't let people scare you off because of the tales of runout here. You will be well rewarded by doing the entire route. P2: Climb up from the large ledge to access an overhanging crack system. Follow this crack system to the top. The moves here are absolutely amazing for the grade and the gear is anywhere you want to put it. If you are visiting Seneca, do this route.
Heading left on Broadway ledge from Castor and Pollux, locate the obvious left facing corner system after Conn's East Direct.
Some very large or very small gear is helpful for P1. The rest of the route takes pretty much any size gear that you have. There's Shuts on the summit that you can lower back to Broadway ledge in one shot with 2 ropes or you can hit an intermediate set of shuts along the way.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the first pitch of Soler.
BETA PHOTO: The upper off width section of pitch 1. The big g...
BETA PHOTO: Tim nearing the top of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of pitch 2.
Topping out on Soler, February 2012.
2nd pitch of Soler from the belay
BETA PHOTO: Conn's East Direct and Soler Route.
|By C Runyan|
Mar 12, 2009
Good squeeze-chimney technique can help on pitch 1 (i.e. wear long pants), or stick to face and the occasional lieback moves. I agree that the gear is all there; still, I wouldn't recommend this 5.5 pitch to a beginning leader.
Set up an anchor at the top of pitch 1 where the giant flake begins running horizontally, more or less (at the start of the orange ramp that runs diagonally up and right). If you run into the cold shuts on Conn's East, you've traversed 20 feet too far along the top of the flake.
Pitch 2 is one of the most exhilarating 5.7 pitches at Seneca -- and that is saying something in a place renowned for amazing 5.7s.
|By Ross Purnell|
Nov 30, 2009
On p1, I went all the way to the chains on Conn's East. I considered backtracking to get onto the ramp, but there was chalk going straight up. The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Aug 3, 2010
The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains.
Yes, I did that, as well. Positive holds and reasonable moves, but not well protected.
From: Gunks, NY
Jul 18, 2011
I've been avoiding Soler because of all the talks about 30 foot runout and off width on pitch 1. Finally onsighted it a couple of weeks ago. The crux on pitch 1 is about 30 feet off the ground and is well protected. The off width/runout section is about 5.5. No off width technique required if you climb the face and layback the flake. Gear is more than adequate if you have C3s and tricams.
|By gneiss pirate|
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Classic route up a historic piece of stone. Well deserving of 4 stars.
|By Mark Maier|
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
A green BigBro fits the off-width section of P1 like a charm. P2 is truly fantastic. Most any gear can be used, but the pitch is relatively long so be careful how you meter it out.
|By Jon Booth|
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
A #5 camalot protects the offwidth on pitch 1.