Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
Select Route:
Alcoa Presents T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets S 
High Test T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Spock's Brain T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 

Soler 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tony Soler, Ray Moore
Page Views: 8,794
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Topping out on Soler, February 2012.

Description 

The second pitch of this climb is one of the most classic pitches at Seneca! Amazingly, it was first done in 1951! P1: Climb the wide corner/flake sytem to reach a left trending ramp. The first 30 feet can be a bit runout unless you have very large gear. However, with modern camming units, there is gear that can be found in the flake if you search hard for it. Don't let people scare you off because of the tales of runout here. You will be well rewarded by doing the entire route. P2: Climb up from the large ledge to access an overhanging crack system. Follow this crack system to the top. The moves here are absolutely amazing for the grade and the gear is anywhere you want to put it. If you are visiting Seneca, do this route.

Location 

Heading left on Broadway ledge from Castor and Pollux, locate the obvious left facing corner system after Conn's East Direct.

Protection 

Some very large or very small gear is helpful for P1. The rest of the route takes pretty much any size gear that you have. There's Shuts on the summit that you can lower back to Broadway ledge in one shot with 2 ropes or you can hit an intermediate set of shuts along the way.


Photos of Soler Slideshow Add Photo
Carpenter makes the moves on pitch 2 of Soler.
Carpenter makes the moves on pitch 2 of Soler.
Start of the first pitch of Soler.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the first pitch of Soler.
2nd pitch of Soler from the belay
2nd pitch of Soler from the belay
Another shot of pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of pitch 2.
The upper off width section of pitch 1.  The big gear is useful in the lower part of the pitch, but this part takes small gear.
BETA PHOTO: The upper off width section of pitch 1. The big g...
Tim nearing the top of pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Tim nearing the top of pitch 1.
Conn's East Direct and Soler Route.
BETA PHOTO: Conn's East Direct and Soler Route.

Comments on Soler Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Mar 12, 2009

Good squeeze-chimney technique can help on pitch 1 (i.e. wear long pants), or stick to face and the occasional lieback moves. I agree that the gear is all there; still, I wouldn't recommend this 5.5 pitch to a beginning leader.

Set up an anchor at the top of pitch 1 where the giant flake begins running horizontally, more or less (at the start of the orange ramp that runs diagonally up and right). If you run into the cold shuts on Conn's East, you've traversed 20 feet too far along the top of the flake.

Pitch 2 is one of the most exhilarating 5.7 pitches at Seneca -- and that is saying something in a place renowned for amazing 5.7s.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Nov 30, 2009

On p1, I went all the way to the chains on Conn's East. I considered backtracking to get onto the ramp, but there was chalk going straight up. The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Aug 3, 2010

The moves straight up onto the ramp were scary 5.8 with fall potential on the ledge, but definitely doable. Next time I will stop before the chains.

Yes, I did that, as well. Positive holds and reasonable moves, but not well protected.
By Gunks
From: Gunks, NY
Jul 18, 2011

I've been avoiding Soler because of all the talks about 30 foot runout and off width on pitch 1. Finally onsighted it a couple of weeks ago. The crux on pitch 1 is about 30 feet off the ground and is well protected. The off width/runout section is about 5.5. No off width technique required if you climb the face and layback the flake. Gear is more than adequate if you have C3s and tricams.
By gneiss pirate
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic route up a historic piece of stone. Well deserving of 4 stars.
By Mark Maier
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A green BigBro fits the off-width section of P1 like a charm. P2 is truly fantastic. Most any gear can be used, but the pitch is relatively long so be careful how you meter it out.
By Jon Booth
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

A #5 camalot protects the offwidth on pitch 1.