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Cala Goloritze
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Sole Incantatore "Sun Charmer" S 

Sole Incantatore "Sun Charmer" 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 475', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alessandro Gogna and Maurizio Zanolla??
Season: Spring or Fall
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: Eric Fernandez on Mar 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Sole Incantatore

Description 

A stunning route to the summit of the spire. Mostly less than vertical, with a few bulges the route is sustained and tricky to onsite. A good mix of crimps, tricky footwork and even a bit of lay backing, steep limestone slab baby! Pitches go at 5+, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 6c. First two pitches can be linked. Some of the crux moves can be aided but don't rely on it. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 had many different bolts and picking the right line to follow can be tricky.

Location 

Middle of the north face of the Aguglia

Protection 

Bolts, 12 or 13 quick draws should do fine, with something for the anchors. Some of the bolts aren't great so be prepared.


Photos of Sole Incantatore "Sun Charmer" Slideshow Add Photo
View of the spire and Cala Goloritze from the boat. The fun approach if you don't want to walk the 5 miles each way to the beach, have a way to get your gear to the beach though, can't land boats, have to anchor offshore and swim it.
BETA PHOTO: View of the spire and Cala Goloritze from the boat...

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