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> Rdside Rocks -…
> Watts Towers
Sole Food
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 6
votes
Routes in Watts Towers
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[Redacted] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adult Books T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bandersnatch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Infectious Smile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Plunger-Faced Mutant T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sole Food T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Talus Phallus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Urban Redevelopment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watt Me Worry? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett & Alan Roberts, November 1982 |
| Page Views: | 787 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a great route on the left edge of the Watts Towers main buttress. Spot a stopper crack leading up the left side of the wall perhaps 8 meters to a hand-sized opening 1 meter long. Climb up this crack placing solid gear to the hand crack and beyond, to where the crack ends. You can get a piece in about every meter if you brought a set of stoppers and cams. Place the one small nut or RP at the top of the crack and head 2 meter up and right on face moves (5.9) to reach a second line, which also protects well on standard gear. Ride this to the top of the crag.
This second line you join to the right is the top third of Urban Development (5.8)
A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows.
To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.
Nice route.
This second line you join to the right is the top third of Urban Development (5.8)
A few cams from 2"-3.5" can make a solid belay anchor up top, but you have to figure a way to keep the rope from dropping into the crack while your partner follows.
To descend, walk and scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.
Nice route.
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