Solar Slab Gully
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Solar Slab Gully is mainly used as an approach to get to the upper face and climb Solar Slab. The climbing is not particularily appealing, but still fun. The pitches are not very distinct, and many belay spots are possible. Follow the prominent trail that starts at the Oak Creek Canyon parking lot for 45 minutes to an hour or so to get to a huge gully on the right.
P1) Pick a route up the gully. Many possiblities exist. A wide crack is in the middle of the face, or a smaller crack to the right. Step around left eventually to a fixed anchor. (5.1)
P2) Scramble and chimney up the left side of the gully. When the gully opens up, a belay is possible at an oak tree with slings to the right. Another option is to continue until a wide steeper section is encountered. (4th class)
P3) Climb up this water worn area passing a sling-threaded hole. This is a possible belay, but it is best to continue on. Belay when comfortable. (5.1)
P4) Scramble up to a vertical wide chimney that is often wet. Belay. (4th class)
P5) Climb the chimney. A set of anchors is immediately at the top left of the chimney, or continue higher to the main terrace. (5.3)
Descent: Rappel the route. Fixed anchors can be found in many places. 5 rappels are necessary and some easy down climbing. Make sure to make mental notes as to where the anchors are at in case of a rappel in the dark after Solar Slab.
Gary M rapping Solar Slab Gully, coming off the fi...
TJ looking Smiley, Doug on 'lead'. First pitch of...
BETA PHOTO: Solar Slab Gully upper chimney
Mike setting up yet another rappel.
How many pulls of whiskey to get down Solar Slab G...
One sip per rap?
Nearly down and getting more golly each rappel!
rappelling down the last pitch
view to the east
looking down the fourth pitch
panorama from the parking section
in the ZONE atop the third pitch
the chimmney from fourth anchors
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch chimney section
BETA PHOTO: Solar Slab Gulley - The obvious line to the left o...
Second Pitch - great ramp climbing with even bette...
BETA PHOTO: Third Pitch - Solar Slab Gulley
|Comments on Solar Slab Gully
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 18, 2004
If you're using the Gully as a descent route, but didn't climb it to get up to Solar Slab, take care on the rappels. Some of the rap anchors aren't visible until they're pretty much right in front of you. And if you rappel past certain of the anchors, you might find yourself facing a bit of a mini-epic. (Unfortunately, I know from experience.....)
|By John Peterson|
Mar 8, 2004
I think the lack of stars here just indicates that it's boring for more advanced climbers. I don't believe there are any better routes at this rating in Vegas.
Once nice thing is that it's climbable on hot days - every belay was fairly shady.
I think the Johnny Vegas rap line is a lot better in terms of rope management.
|By Anthony Anagnostou|
Mar 29, 2005
as of two weeks ago, mid march, about half of the bolts on the gully rap anchors were in need of a little TLC. most of them appear to need just a little wrenching. a couple of them actually wiggled.
if the gully is on your way, bring a wrench and do us all a favor.
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006
A really fun downclimb!
|By Nathan Scherneck|
From: Portland, OR
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
On the ascent skip the first set of rapp rings (these are an intermediate rapp for single-rope rappellers) and climb up to the tree ledge which has (2) fixed pitons and a set of rappel rings.
Did the descent in (6) single rope (60m) rappels. The second set of rapp rings can be tough to find if you didn't come up the gully (their out on the East face).
Feb 16, 2011
On 2/15/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the wiggling first pitch anchor bolts. The new bolts are 1 ea. 3/8x2.25, 3/8x3 SS. They were moved about two feet higher due to stance and rock quality concerns, actually improving the rope pull on the way down. Also replaced was one of the pitch .5 anchors (last rappel with a single rope) with a 3.8x2.25 SS. The remaining bolt is a decent 5/16 stud.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 13, 2011
Nathan I agree, as of March 2011 I counted 6 single rope (60m) rappels to get down this gully. I encountered no jammed rope, but could see potential for that. See here for second set of rap rings.
|By dirty son of a cinch|
From: las vegas, nv
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
my first multi pitch climb!!! this was awesome with little to no exposure, half way up was like being on the ground again.. great day of fun..
|By William Nelson|
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
I thought this would be a joke, but the guy at the climbing shop said if you stay to the right on first pitch up against the huge right facing corner its a great hand jam. I wore my 5.10 guide tennies, but wish I had my climbing shoes on this pitch. He was right. He said about 5.5, I agree. first pitch is really fun, the rest is super easy and protects well. Chimney technique for last waterfall pitch works. Couple spinner anchors need to be tightened on first pitch. Great route for taking someone on their first multipitch. Very little exposure and great view of canyon at base of solar slab.
|By Weston L|
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 21, 2012
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c
|By andrew willey|
From: Las Vegas
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
i counted 7 single rappels, 6 bolted 1 threaded hole.the first or top anchor we downclimbed instead.. watch for your knots in the end of the rope sticking in cracks!! happened to me last year!!
From: Mesa AZ
Nov 21, 2012
Great beginner climb for new leaders - Stick to the right side of the gully to follow the line
- the left side is oddwidth and a bit perilous imho
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2012
SS Gully starts on the right, but quickly moves left after the first two pitches- be careful not to drift right or ride the right side all the way up, lest you wander into fairly strenuous 5.9/5.10 climbing.