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Solar Plexus 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: P-1 Tom Howard & Lee Carter, circa 1980's Complete route with P-2, Nathan Brown, Mike Grimm, & Lee Carter
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, fall, winter
Page Views: 1,120
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 12, 2007
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  • Description 

    This is on the same wall of funky features as "Indecent Exposure". This route is slightly harder but less endurance oriented. Both are on high quality rock.

    Start on the "Mourning Maiden" dihedral. P-1 Climb up MM 10' and traverse out right to a lichen covered face. Climb the face up past an old pin and a bolt. Continue up semi runout terrain to an overlap. Pull overlap to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10-). P-2 Climb the obvious steep wall via a seam (rp's usefull here) and crack (possible #3 or 3.5 camelot here) through the bulge to a line of 3 bolts. The crux is moving right at the first bolt to the next stance at bolt 2 (5.12). The climbing gets relatively easier above bolt 3 (5.10), and the gear is good (albeit funky). Lower or rap from same 2 bolt anchor of "Indecent Exposure"


    Location 

    Just to the right of "Indecent Exposure"


    Protection 

    Standard rack. 3.5 Camelot could be usefull



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