Solar Plexus  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  P-1 Tom Howard & Lee Carter, circa 1980's Complete route with P-2, Nathan Brown, Mike Grimm, & Lee Carter New Route:  Yes Season:  spring, fall, winter Submitted By:  nbrown on Dec 12, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mike in the business

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2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is on the same wall of funky features as "Indecent Exposure". This route is slightly harder but less endurance oriented. Both are on high quality rock.

Start on the "Mourning Maiden" dihedral. P-1 Climb up MM 10' and traverse out right to a lichen covered face. Climb the face up past an old pin and a bolt. Continue up semi runout terrain to an overlap. Pull overlap to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10-). P-2 Climb the obvious steep wall via a seam (rp's usefull here) and crack (possible #3 or 3.5 camelot here) through the bulge to a line of 3 bolts. The crux is moving right at the first bolt to the next stance at bolt 2 (5.12). The climbing gets relatively easier above bolt 3 (5.10), and the gear is good (albeit funky). Lower or rap from same 2 bolt anchor of "Indecent Exposure"

Location 

Just to the right of "Indecent Exposure"

Protection 

Standard rack. 3.5 Camelot could be usefull