Solar Impact 5.12+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12+ [details] |
| FA: | Rob Pizem, Ben Rueck |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | any (better when its cooler) |
| Submitted By: | rob pizem on Dec 19, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: The main dihedral with the huge roof at the top!
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Description This is a three pitch route up a huge dihedral that culminates in a wonderful roof crack 0.5 - 0.75 cams! The first two pitches are a wide corner and can be a bit spicy due to thinking that everything is going to break. We cleaned a bunch off the lower 2 pitches, and I feel it's pretty safe, but I am sure that someone will find more loose rock.
Location 100 yards to the right of the Tab. Tower. It is the only dihedral that runs from bottom to top of the wall. A mishmash of options to take up up the dihedral. We choose the most obvious and weakest line of resistance. South face and perfect winter route. Both days on it were sunny and 40 degrees and able to be climbed in a t-shirt.
Protection 1 #6, 2 #5s, 2 #4s, 2 #3s, 2 #2s, 1 #1, 4 #0.75s, 4 #0.5 1s, #0.4.
Each belay has a 2 bolt rap anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The roof on pitch 2.
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Getting lowered out from the final roof crack anch...
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Ben coming up pitch 2.
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By rob pizem
Dec 19, 2011
| Pitch 1 is a 5.10 with some moves past blocks that you think will break. I pulled on them and removed the loose stuff. They may sound hollow, but they seem pretty sturdy. Belay at ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 starts up the dihedral and out the roof (5.11 -). The gear under the roof should be slung or back cleaned in order to prevent rope drag (keep that #6 for after the roof). The flake at the top of the pitch seems sturdy enough. You will know what I mean when you get there. Belay on ledge 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 The rack for the last pitch is 1 #5 at the beginning of the roof and then the 0.5 and 0.75s, that is all that you need. You could place a 2 and 4 before the roof, but it is easy climbing above the anchor to get to the roof. |
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