Is there trad in Red Rock Canyon? Oui. C'est vrai.
From the guidebook: on the far left side of the cliff. Layback a fingertip crack up an obvious, right-facing, arching corner until it's possible to exit. Climb directly above the arch to anchors in a shallow scoop.
Other notes: it is #9 in guidebook.
This is the furthest south developed route on the slab - see photo for prominent characteristics.
Rack: #0.2, 0.2, 1, 2 Camalots (from guidebook).
Bolted anchors at top.
Eds. the route now sports 2 bolts, approved by the FA and requested by the City of Colorado Springs due to safety concerns voiced by local climbers after cracks appeared in the natural placements.
Ti-Fou leading route.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of 2/3 of the route - ending move out of and...
Me on it. I don't think it's 10+. Maybe 9+.
Wes making the move to the chains.
|By Steven N|
Aug 17, 2006
Would it be too much to say this is one of the best routes in RRC?? I personally loved it. Although I did it on TR, I'll be back soon for the lead. THIN fingers start to big ole underclings. SWEET rest before finishing move to anchors.
|By Rob Powell|
Jul 21, 2007
Bored of all the bolted slabs at RRC? This is a real treat. It's still a slab, but it's a crack, too.
This is really classic for the 50 or so feet long it is (just guessing the length). I had to climb it before I knew what the route was or what it was rated. Actually blew my 1st attempt because I didn't have gear small enough for the start and kept falling to the ground. Will take a #00 TCU at the start. Thanks for not bolting this route. The thin gear at the beginning adds to the fun.
Not as difficult as the guidebook grade of 11c/d. Just seems hard because it's slabby and you can't get your tips in the crack at the start. I'd agree with 10+/11-, since I suck at slabs and was able to lead this with 1 fall (yes, those thin cams will hold). Once you are past the 1st 20 feet, it's just fun.
Must do for the area.
Aug 29, 2007
The guidebook rating of 11c/d refers to the climb to climber's right, which is certainly that grade. This climb can often be distinguished from the constant supply of leaver biners on the last bolt.
Jun 15, 2008
Snake alert, On Saturday a climber on Solar Flare got bit by a snake when he put his hand in the crack at the start of the climb about 5 or 6 feet from the base (I was climbing two routes to the right on Tava).
We could not identify the snake as it retreated back into the crack. The climber seems to have been ok so either it was a dry bite or it was not a rattlesnake. The crack is very deep making it very difficult to see the little bugger.
|By Ben Burnett|
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Very good, to bad it is short. No pins left (5/1/10) at the start. The crux seemed to me to be getting to the first gear placement 15 ft up (Aliens fit well). 9+ maybe.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 26, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This one is just pure fun, all the way up.
|By Jacob Resman|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 28, 2011
Best route in the canyon!
|By Mike Smyth|
From: Spartanburg, SC
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One of my favorites in Red Rocks. I had been eyeing this one for a while. I think 8- is a little underrated, but it is definitely not a 10 grade climb. Stuck my finger in a cactus that was growing under the undercling. Tried to clean some of that debris out. Great climb, though.
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blew my first piece of pro ever today on this route. I didn't use a sling on a nut placement about halfway up. I used just a quickdraw which let the nut wiggle just enough to pop when I slipped while I was messing with a cam placement. Great route, but like always, use those slings. I would say 9+ becasuse of the last moves to the anchors. Cheers to decking.
|By Joe Van Sant|
Aug 4, 2013
Try leading this only nuts alone, it makes you have to find good resting spots and lengthens the climb a little bit. The top traverse is a little runout with no nut placements but on easy climbing. Makes it a solid 10.
|By Chris Mack|
Mar 10, 2014
This route now sports 2 bolts on the slab. The rest of the route is as it was.
|By Mark Tjaden|
Mar 10, 2014
Sorry we didn't post this sooner, the bolts have been put in to protect the climbers in the park. Local climbers voiced a concern about the flake where the cams were being placed. Over the years the left hand on the face of the flake is breaking down, and the flake itself is showing seams/cracking that have grown. As the FAscenist of the climb, I was asked by the city to investigate and fix it or pull the anchors. The flake is not as strong as it used to be, and if you were to fall, the cam could break the soft sandstone/flake, damaging the route and potentially injuring someone. It made sense to put the bolts in where the soft flake was, high up enough to keep it a fun start and commiting and currently allowing trad a the top where the flake is stronger.
P.S.: I would say 5.9, not sure who put the 5.10+.