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Solar Flare 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott and Rhicard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,871
Submitted By: eMurdock on Jan 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Having fun on Solar Flare. Eric Ruljancich and To...

Description 

Solar Flare is a very good sport route on perfect rock located on a small cliff about 200 hundred yds to the left (west) of the Sunburst Crag proper. Many people have looked at this crack/seam from Monlino Campground, but it was only bolted recently. The route could take a couple pieces of gear, but the decision was made to bolt the whole thing in order to avoid carrying a rack for a few placements (where hands need to be placed also). Regardless of ethics, or lack there of, this climb is superb and is almost worth the approach for just this route. Too bad it does not keep going for another 50 feet.

Protection 

Gear


Photos of Solar Flare Slideshow Add Photo
Solar Flare goes up the crack on the left.  White Dwarf starts in the tree's shadow.
BETA PHOTO: Solar Flare goes up the crack on the left. White ...
Impressive onsight, Greg's been eating his Wheaties.
Impressive onsight, Greg's been eating his Wheatie...

Comments on Solar Flare Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 19, 2013
By WSnyder
Feb 17, 2006

Another bolted crack? "Regardless of ethics, or lack there of," is not a valid excuse. Remember "If you live by the sword, you die by the sword".
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Feb 17, 2006

Cres, have you climbed this on gear? It has many unprotectable sections where the bolts are the only way to go. Just because a feature is a crack, does not mean it protects well.

I was not saying "regardless of ethics.." as an excuse. An excuse for what? I was just saying that the line is very good for Tucson standards. By the way, some of the bolts were recently moved to make the opening 20 feet less spicy. But I assume you would ignore the first couple fixed pieces anyway. Have fun.

Anyhow, you are just trolling and trying to get Jim and Eric's goat. They do seem to be migrating to the dark side.
By WSnyder
Feb 18, 2006

Hey Erik! Long time no see. I'm just teasing Jim a bit. No harm really meant. It's just funny how our past history can come around and bite us sometimes.
By Jimbo
Feb 24, 2006

Guilty as charged. I have gone to the dark side! While I would not lead any of the "cracks" we bolted soley on gear, there are bolts next to protectable cracks. My only defense, they would be in your face scarefests on gear, but bolted they are super fun. I bow to the masses!
If anyone wants to lead Solar Flare or Solar E-clips on gear, let me know, I'll belay you, and chop the bolts when your done. Otherwise, enjoy the safe onsight on us.
By Jimbo
Apr 28, 2006

Forgive me father Sheafmen for I have sinned.
EFR led this route today on gear. All gear was super bomber and did not interfear with the holds in the crack. (At least the way Eric placed the gear)
This route is a consensus 3 star sport climb and an even better trad route.
Do we chop or do we not????
Eric and I think we should should leave the bolts. If you want to lead it on gear go for it. This way everybody is happy.
It is our route after all.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 28, 2006

It is not ours anymore pal. It is the climbing communities. If they like it better as a sport route the bolts will stay otherwise they will go. The route is great either way. Lead it on gear and you will remember it past tomorrow. Clip it and go is fun but not as memorable.
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is now a gear climb. Sport climbers need not apply :)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 16, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Thanks, Eric. It was great of you and Jim to put up the thread about this route, and then to put the additional effort into removing the bolts. It's a really nice route.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2008

Did this route again yesterday. Have not been on it since I lead it on gear two years ago. What a battle. I decided to place gear where I might if I didn't know the climb and that made it a good deal more interesting. The last piece that protects the last move is from a pumpy stance and I fiddled with stoppers for a while before getting one that would work. This was fun as a clip up and now it is fun and not so soon forgotten.
By Bladrey Chan
Dec 15, 2008

great route - good job camouflaging the bolt holes eric, you can hardly tell they were there
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Some of the history of this climb may not be clear from reading the comments. After this climb was originally bolted and led, Eric and Jim also led it on gear. They subsequently did a remarkable thing: they asked the community if the bolts should be removed or not. The majority of the people responding voted to chop, and Eric and Jim happily obliged.

Now this climb is a fantastic gear line. It is sustained, pumpy, and thrilling. There is just enough quality gear to protect the climb safely without making it too straightforward.

If you're looking for classic 5.11 trad testpieces, put this climb on your list.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Mar 24, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A good route. Thanks for removing the bolts Eric, it was much more memorable that way. And gave me a bigger case of sewing-machine leg!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pretty classic for a Mt. Lemmon trad climb; glad the bolts were removed.