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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sojourn 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Muehlhauser and Sarah Spaulding, 1984
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 12, 2001

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route Sojourn is a thin crack/face testpiece and feels a bit harder than the 11a rating given by the first ascensionist. It starts just to the right of Melvin's Wheel on a buttress separated by a 4th class gully. The route faces directly west making it a cool pitch for much of the day. Tiny gear placements make this a reasonable but somewhat serious lead. The two bolt anchor at the top of the pitch was installed by Topher Donahue in the late 80s. It is possible to scramble to the top of this cliff (via the gulley) to set-up a top-rope on this very interesting line.

A direct finish straight up the obvious thin crack through the upper bulge was free'd by Eli Helmuth in 2001 which bumps the rating up to 12a/b. #1 TCUs and #3 and #4 Camalots are helpful in doing this sustained and technical finish directly to the anchors. The original finish traversed right around the corner to easier ground.

Protection 

RP's, very small cams and a red tri-cam are helpful for the original line.


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