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This route is located to left side of the Northwest face.
It will be the crack system that is directly right of the large roof. The crack is mostly fist-sized that works its way over two bulges. The bulges are the cruxes of the climb. You can do the climb in one pitch (60m rope), but to minimize rope drag, you can setup a belay on the ledge before the first bulge. There are anchors at the top belay.
Scramble up the chimney to walk off to the left.
I found a #3.5 Camalot helpful to protect the moves through the second bulge.
Offwidth antics require one to be ~flexible~ with ...
Me approaching the 1st roof of the climb. The hard...
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 24, 2002
Just to the right of the anchors on top of the 2nd pitch there are other anchors with chains you can rap from. There is a little warning sign that two rope rappel is needed. We made it fine with 2x60m ropes, I think 2x50m will also do it.
Jun 10, 2005
This is a very good route, especially for the grade....
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 24, 2006
If you like traverses (and Vedauvoo has some great ones, i.e. Journey to Coramonde; NE Cutoff; Hair Lip; Captain Nemo; Golden Grief; from EO Lieback to the top of 5.11 Crack; Grand Traverse; etc.), try this: Start up Soft Touch and traverse across the horizontal crack to Screw. It starts easy and progressively gets harder. Fist jams are required and then a very thin and off balance mantle to stem across to Screw. Take 1 or 2 #4 Camalots and assorted medium and large cams (If I remember correctly, I think that I used a Big Dude.). Don't run it out because of the ground fall potential. Protect your second! This route doesn't have the best position, but for anyone that loves traverses, it is worth the price of admission. I believe I had the FA since there were potato chip flakes that broke off at key hold areas. The last 3-4 moves are .9.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 12, 2006
Climbed 6/11/06 with H. McIntyre...guidebook recommends this for the 'beginning' leader. Pro is good, but the upper bulge crux felt rather stiffer than the given 5.easy grade. Rap chains require two ropes! BTW the other two rap stations (70') indicated in the guidebook above Screw have been removed.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 28, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
5.5 felt about right for this, although it took some looking (and a little bravery on my part, my ego wouldn't let me fall on a 5.5) to find the right sequence. If you string the two pitches together, a double set of Camalots #0.75 to #3 with a little bit above and a set of nuts protected this very well. The second crux did feel more difficult than the crux of Edward's Crack, but I've done Ed's so many times that it all feels easy to me.
|By jeffrey heddings|
Jul 12, 2008
Fun but grunty. 5.6 is a better grade. it will still see all the traffic, but parties will be more ready. A great beginner CHALLENGE, and that is what it's about.
From: Boise, ID
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Fun climb. If you resort to chimneying at the bulges, the cruxes really aren't that hard, and there is great pro.