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soft or hard shoes for thin cracks?
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By jim.dangle
Mar 21, 2013

This is kind of depth of winter question but . . .

With the monster edging power of shoes these days is it worth wearing soft smeary shoes for thin cracks anymore?

It just seems like-- with exception of true splitters, which are geographically rare-- sporty edging shoes allow you take advantage of all sorts of footholds (both on the face and on the crack itself) that you can't with soft shoes. I see a lot of people climbing cracks this way and I don't if it is because they don't know how to toejam or if they really do know how to face climb. I think this might be a place where trad climbers could learn a thing or two from sport climbers.

Its also less painful. Sort of.

Jim


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Mar 21, 2013
blah

I prefer stiff shoes with pointy toes for thin thin crack. the blanco from five ten has got me up a lot of stuff that was hard for me. I know some folks who crank hard in the lace up katanas


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By Andrew Mayer
Mar 21, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

FWIW...the strongest thin crack climber that I have climbed with (5.12+) did so in mythos


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Mar 21, 2013
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

IMHO it depends on how thick the crack is. Moccs & other slippers and Mythos, sized with the toes flat, can fit into off-finger cracks. Supermoccs, when sized appropriately, can get rand-jams in even tight finger cracks. Any smaller than that and edging shoes are best.


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By Sir Wanksalot
From County Jail
Mar 21, 2013

Oh just buy the damn TC pros already. If they work for Tommy, they'll work for you!


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Mar 21, 2013

Mike wrote:
IMHO it depends on how thick the crack is. Moccs & other slippers and Mythos, sized with the toes flat, can fit into off-finger cracks. Supermoccs, when sized appropriately, can get rand-jams in even tight finger cracks. Any smaller than that and edging shoes are best.


It also depends how featured the face is next to the crack. It basically comes down to whether you are going to prioritize trying to get feet in the crack (soft shoe) or edge on little face features (stiff shoe). This is why a soft shoe is often best for finger cracks on Wingate (little to no face features, so you need the best jamming performance you can get), but a stiff edging shoe is generally the better choice for granite finger cracks (since there are usually edges or crystals to stand on, and these face footholds are usually better than the rand smears int he crack).


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By jim.dangle
Mar 21, 2013

Randy W. wrote:
Oh just buy the damn TC pros already. If they work for Tommy, they'll work for you!


Exactly . . . he seems to climb in Miuras most of the time.

Jim


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