BETA PHOTO: Soft in the Middle with bolts (added) and protecti...
Hayley Anna is worth the walk but adding 2 more pitches makes it even more worthwhile. Both pitches above are fun. The first is easy and fun. Although it looks like a dirty crack your basicly face climbing around the crack but getting great protection in the crack. This pitch has some very cool features. Although it stays wet for a few days after a rain you can almost always avoid the water. It has a fun traverse and a nice exposed belay. The second pitch is great and it is harder than it appears at first. Originally put up with 2 bolts I have added 5 more to take away the sting. Bring a bit of pro to a .5C4 and a good eye to find it.
p1 starts directly above Hayley Anna. Goes straight up, then follows a diagonaling crack to the right. Soon after the crack peters out, face climb to the exposed 2 bolt belay/rap station.
2nd pitch goes up from here passing a couple of bolts and taking gear when you can find it. Ends at another 2 bolt belay/rap station. 3 raps straight down. 2nd rap goes over the large roof to a third bolted rap station.
Standard rack for p1. (Also may want a #4 camalot)
On the last pitch I place a yellow C#3(only thing that will work in that spot. Right above it you could place a micro cam. Above that I place an offset nut. Bust out a few moves and you get a bomber .5C4. After the last bolt keep your eye out for a green Alien size peice under the small roof. You can also get one last peice, a small offset nut or a 0C3, before the anchor.(SEE TOPO/PHOTO)
This route is no longer R rated. Josh and I added 2 more bolts to my route. We were going to add a third but the rain came in again. So there is still a bit of a run out but the climbing is easy there. Just make sure to place good gear under the mini roof before the last moves to the anchor. I placed 2 cams a blue tcu and the red C3. The yellow C3 would be nice there but it was also very nice to have lower down.
A double set of cams should be enough for the first 2 pitches. You may also want a 3.5 and 4 Camalot. The 3rd pitch is mostly bolt protected but after the, now, 4th bolt you step right and can get an ok peice(I had a yellow alien and a Yellow C3 and the C3 seemed to fit the placement best). From the same stance you can get a micro cam (000C3)and maybe even an offset micro nut. after a couple of moves I got a bomber .5 C4. From there it's a bit run to the mini roof where you can get a peice or two. I placed a blue tcu and a red C3 but a second yellow C3 instead of a blue tcu might be better. You can also place an offset stopper like maybe a #6HB before the anchor.
Also, the pitch above Haley Anna is often wet but after a bit of cleaning you can now climb around the wet sections without much trouble. The holds on this pitch are amazing. Bring several long slings for this pitch.
I am glad this route is seeing a bit of traffic. As stated above we added a few bolts to the last pitch and intended on one more but got rained out on 2 trips up there with the drill. The climbing in the run out section is easy but a short person might have a harder time reaching the protection under the roof before traversing right to the anchor. Also I have heard people are missing(not finding) several peices of gear available between the last bolt and the anchor. If you find the gear this pitch is a very soft R if not that last move will be very heady.
I hope to get the last bolt in soon due to the fact that the route is seeing a bit of traffic and from below the route appears very well protected.
I thought that the combination of Hayley Anna followed by these two pitches of Soft in the Middle would make a great 3 pitch 5.8 with varied climbing from bottom to top!
At the top of p2 you have to resist the urge to be drawn over to the rock right under the bolts, which I did and pulled it off with the help of a upper belay from the stuck red rope (see picture), still probably only 5.8, but I didn't want to risk blowing the move and ending up on the little ledge below,
Instead, work left a bit to a roof under which you can get a couple of cams, and move up there then walk a ramp right to the anchors.
It might make for a great 5.8 leader route to put a bolt protecting the moves under the anchors, but it's a fun route, very enjoyable.
I added another bolt as suggested by Ed and others. The pitch is now very safe but keep an eye out for protection. I added a few pro hints in the protection section above.
By Kurt Jensen From: Aptos,CA Apr 18, 2012 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
Nice meeting you the other day Jeff. I've enjoyed a few of your routes there now! I think Jeff's pro hints are key. I couldn't see any bolts when I left the 6th bolt, and would have been well into the R zone if I didn't have a purple .5 C4 or equiv. when I found the brief bomber spot for it. Above that, I didn't have his recommended gear for the end of the pitch, and hadn't seen his tips (even though I'd just met him)...which made for some R excitement with no pro above last bolt. Follow wise Jedi's tips, and you'll probably have a more casual lead on really cool rock. Enjoy!
Ya Kurt, nice to meet you and great to see people climbing and enjoying Parkline. Soft in the middle would be scary without pro. But with the recommended rack it is very safe. Kinda getting warm down there now but Parkline is great on days when they are calling for a chance of rain. Hope we are not done there for the summer.
Pretty fun route. I felt the 2nd pitch was a little heady. I found a spot for a purple master cam but even that was way above my last bolt and way far from the next. Decently moderate slabbing but definitely not a clean fall if you blow it.
I agree with Mr. Hartouni about not getting sucked into the terrain directly below the anchor on this pitch. I started up and then ended up having to downclimb a heart poundingly high ways from the last pro. It is sweet relief to sink that bomber blue master cam under the roof.
We rapped back to the first pitch anchor instead of the bolts above the roof b/c the stance looked a lot more comfortable.