2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
30 feet to the right of the mine tunnel is a near vertical slab. The slab is fully bolted with a small belay ledge at its base. There's a short scramble to the ledge. With bolts every seven or so feet, the route is fully protected. Fun slab climbing with holds just where you want them. I found the crux to be between the 5th an 6th bolts (I think), requiring a mantle off a small ledge to a blind reach overhead, landing me, thankfully, in a 3-finger sinker pocket. The Rolofson book says the route is a 5.10, but he may not fully recall the route. I thought is was more on the 5.9 side. Either way, it's worth a visit while climbing at Animal World or the Boulderado.
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Optional #1 Camalot to start.
I think if you hesitate you'll find this harder; fiddling around mid-sequence burns energy. If you go with the flow (will the hold to be at your reach) you'll find the crux 9+. Fight it and it will seem 10a.
This is a sunny climb in the afternoon on a surprising slab. One last thing: if you want to make the first clip (which does involve a move over exposure up onto the slab) extra safe, it is possible to throw in some pro in a hand sized crack before the face. I used a red BD hex and felt glad all over.
This route is very nice and worth doing, but no way is it 5.10-, even by Boulder Cyn standards. 5.8 at the most, and easier and safer than virtually *any* 5.8 than I can think of in Eldo. Getting started is a bit weird, though, and I agree that a 1-2" piece has a calming effect.
I concur with Ray's comment. Did this route today and it felt like 5.9 for the Canyon - no harder. The bolts might be a bit reachy for the more vertically challenged, but the climbing is not 5.10. Compared to Eldo, this is probably 5.7.
Great route though! Beware of loose rock and the potential for a nasty tumble getting to the first bolt!
Oh yeah, great climb. It clearly is not 5.10, and I know this because I still struggle on many 5.9 routes, and this was pure joy.! The only reason I would give it a 5.9 is because, like mentioned above, you can get psyched out if you don't just keep moving. I must say, there are places where, being short, I had an intermediate move before the bolt. Those moments made it slightly challenging. Oh, we dabbled with starting left, center and right of the line of the first bolt off the belay ledge...and each start was fun and unique. The route is in the shade most of the morning.
A couple of things: As others have pointed out, this route is not 5.10. I've taken first time climbers on this, and they've gotten up it fine on TR. 5.8 at the most but still a very fun climb. A couple of saftey precautions: be very mindful of loose rocks both on the approach and around the belay station. Also, if you decide to rap off the route to save wear and tear on your rope from the awful sloping ledge before the last bolt, be sure not to toss your rope anywhere near the nasty pine tree with lots of small dead branches that stands just to the left of the climb. It can really eat up your rope and may reqiure some toproped, licheny, 5.10 fingercracking to untangle said rope from said tree. And the mine hole is not a bathroom!
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Sep 20, 2004 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is not 5.10, although it might be a bit height dependent. At the start, it's easier to come in from the right before clipping the first bolt. A 60m is plenty for lowering off, I think a 50m would be fine.
This can easily and safely be lead on gear. Most bolts are placed directly next to gear placements.
By Eric Brehm From: Louisville, CO Nov 2, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
We ended up at this crag when trying to find Animal World also. The problem is that the approach to Animal World involves an easterly traverse along the sloping terrace just above the Boulderado, with some scrambling and a couple of slightly exposed spots. Since we were expecting more of a 'trail' to Animal World, this didn't seem quite right, so we left the terrace to head further uphill and bumped into Mine Hole Crag before we realized the error.
By Eric Brehm From: Louisville, CO Nov 9, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
This is a nice route on mostly solid rock (one suspect flake near second bolt). We approached the first bolt on the face from the right, up a wide slot and then along a left-angling, hand-sized crack where protection can be placed. Walking the feet up this crack, with good handholds available above, seems easiest.
Rolofson's original intention for this route may have been to take a direct line right next to the fourth bolt, which looks rather difficult and would explain his 5.10 rating. We bypassed this by stepping right a couple of feet, to reach good handholds near a thin crack with a bush in it, then stepping back left. Just above this is the technical crux, the mantle-shelf maneuver to the Thank God finger pocket mentioned in the route intro (5.9-ish).
With a 60m rope you can lower all the way back to the ground; no need to scramble up to the exposed belay ledge 10 feet off the ground to start the climb.
Just did this a couple of hours ago. Very fun face climbing, but I want to highlight there's a loose block precariously at the top to the left of the anchors. I could tell that if someone pulls on it lay-back style they will dislodge it and put the belayer in danger. I put a big chalk X on it, but that won't last long.
I suspect that the folks calling this 5.7 or barely 5.8 are either on the tall side or climbed off to the left or right of the bolt line. That being said, I don't think it's 5.10, and my daughter who is 5'1" agrees. Would have been a lot more interesting as a mixed line and quite safe with 1 or 2 bolts.