Begin in the dihedral same as Came as a Rat, but go left at the fourth clip. Follow little edges and two finger pockets up into the sky. Just when you think it can't go any longer, there is a mantel top out waiting for your pumped forearms. Sustained and brilliant! Was graded .11d, but it seems the pump factor pushes it to .12a.
On the right side of the WD wall. This climb shares its start with Came as a Rat but goes left after four bolts.
12 clips, sport anchor
|By Mike Snyder|
Sep 15, 2012
Climbed this for a 10 year anniversary ascent recently.
The leftward transition from the starting dihedral was a bit dirty but solid.
The pockets and crimps going on forever make the Shinto routes seems like boulder problems.
Solid climbing with 12 well spaced bolts.
It was unfortunate to find zero chalk on this enduro beast. Long but readable, pumpy but manageable. The mantle at the end was humbling. Very psyched to amnesia flash this old girl.
From: Syracuse/Keene, NY
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its a shame there isnt more chalk on this. The upper headwall is beautiful and worth doing the bottom corner to get to. Get on it!!!