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Sodomizing Satan 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jared Nielson
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: KipHenrie on May 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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11d

Description 

Awful name - fun climb. At the base of this climb somebody has etched 11b. The Jason Stevens guidebook rated it 11d. So go climb it and you decide. It's just past vertical and technical with tricky feet. The crux is the last move to chains. Teeny crimpers to a bigger hold to the left of the chains. You can skip the crimpers and make a big throw to the hold.

Felt 11b until the last move then that move was considerably harder.

Location 

Right of Gutter Dike (10b).

Protection 

6 bolts to biner chains


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levi on SS
levi on SS

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By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
May 24, 2014

This actually shares the same start as Gutter Dyke, but instead of going left along the flake, head straight up to find out why this route is rated 11d
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
May 29, 2015

Big throw is the way to go. The anchor hold is huge and forgiving, and the crimpers are complete garbage. Good route.
By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 22, 2015

It is called 11d, because the last move is like v5. The crimps are ridiculous, and the throw is super long, especially if short.
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