Climb the finger and hand cracks up the corner. Abundant face features for feet. The crux is probably the finger crack at the bottom.
Located in the Laceration Jam area of the "Southern Ramparts." You'll find it about 150' north of the Southern Escape Gully. This is a huge left facing corner to the left of Old Men in Tight Pants (.10a).
Standard rack to hand-sized for lead or lots of webbing for a TR set-up.
By Sonnabend From: West Saint Paul, MN Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This was a solid route and pretty fun. There were a couple awkward placements and some loose rock that prevents you from using some obvious placements. It is a short route so I just put gear wherever I could. There are three old pitons on this route, one right at the base and then two more on the route, they seemed pretty solid but I chose not to use them. The lost arrow in the middle of the route would have saved me a couple minutes as I putzed around in that spot looking for a placement.
I set up a TR for others climbing with me which requires long webbing and a few larger pieces. Lots of gravel at the top so your belayer should get out of the way while you either top out, set up a rappel or top rope, or definitely have a helmet if they are going to 2nd.
This is a fun route if you are in the area and need something a bit more moderate.