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Tower Two
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Big Chill, The S 
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From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 
Fryable T 
Insane in the Brain S 
Klein's Girls T 
Not Bosched Up T 
Radiation Babies S 
Shadow, The T 
Social Realism T 
Whiskey and Weed Power S 

Social Realism 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, Chris Pendleton and Stuart Ruckman, 1988
Page Views: 2,617
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jul 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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The view just gets better...
Park your car off of the main canyon road.

Description 

This route makes the drive, the hike and the risk of being struck by a large falling rock in the Shooting Gallery...WORTH IT! Continuously difficult for the rating, vertical with technical and commiting movement, complete with an airy finish and a view to remember. The limestone is golden colored and not as compact as other routes. There are still a few loose rocks on this route.


Location 

Climb up the Shooting Gallery (the gully between Towers 2 and 3). The talus is loose here and gives way to a ramp. Social Realism is the second route from the left on Tower 2. The belay ledge is decent.

Note: The Ruckman Guide shows this to the left of The Big Chill, but it's wrong.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor with multiple slings and 2 rings (shared with The Big Chill). A few small pieces up to a .75 bd help protect the start. I would also recommend a yellow Metolius in a 4 inch slot for a belay anchor, just in case the leader falls before making the first clip. WEAR HELMETS!



Photos of Social Realism Slideshow Add Photo
The Riddler getting closer
The Riddler getting closer
Stayin socially real...
Stayin socially real...
The Riddler reaching for the good stuff
The Riddler reaching for the good stuff
Starting Bolt... For Social ... MAYBE?
Starting Bolt... For Social ... MAYBE?
Comments on Social Realism Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jul 23, 2006

I did this again on thursday and it really is a great climb. I felt the rock quality was better than most up there (outside the cave). Also, the last bolt was gone (as of 7/20/06) so you have to run it out just a little to the anchors. You can see where a rock might have hit it and knocked the hanger off. The rock around it was flaked around the face of the hole but remains solid. The anchor part of the powerbolt was in place but the actual bolt and hanger were gone. That part of the climb is not any harder than the rest of the route and eases up a couple of feet past the bolt to maybe 5.8 for the last 10 feet of the route. If you've done everything else on it climbing those finish jugs should not be a problem at all.

oh - and an orange metolius might fit well in that crack too.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 14, 2007

Ryan, I think you have these routes backwards. Social Realism is the route on the right (second from left). Both are great!

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 17, 2007

the book has social realism on the left, I'm pretty sure. Pretty hard for .10a limestone, but a good route. There are a couple of hand sized holds just waiting for someone to pull them off near the top.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2007

Well I climbed Social Realism several times before the route to the left of it showed up. I have the old Wasatch North guide that only shows the Social Realism route and Ruckman's description surely is for what now is the 2nd route from the left. If the newer guide, shows Social Realism on the left its a rare mistake...

By John Steiger
Aug 7, 2007

Ruckmans' 1998 edition shows Social Realism as the furthest left bolted route, but it seems obvious from their route description that Social Realism is in fact the second bolted route from the left. Their description says to use cams or nuts to reach the first bolt; no gear is necessary -- or likely possible -- to get to the first bolt on the farthest left line, which must be The Big Chill.