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Social Outcast 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, 1989
Page Views: 10,726
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (112)
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Tim Deroehn "bouldering" as he put it, S...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The unmistakable arete of Social Outcast can be seen from most points at or near Bonsai. Social offers steep climbing on mostly big holds.

Begin with a hard sequence to gain the first jug on the route. Boulder a few moves on huge holds and climb slightly up until you can rest at a no-hands stance.

From the rest, move right onto the arete proper. The big holds continue up the arete. Most people top out to the right and then walk left to clip the chains. The left, more direct, exit is harder and a bit less fun.

Social is a popular first 5.12. The moves are fun, easy to work, and the falls are clean.

Protection 

6 bolts.


Photos of Social Outcast Slideshow Add Photo
Secret beta- Grab hold and don't let go!
Secret beta- Grab hold and don't let go!
Sydney trying to figure out "short" beta...
Sydney trying to figure out "short" beta...
me a few moves after the rest
me a few moves after the rest
Muel on Social
Muel on Social
Ladd Raine making some of the last moves before th...
Ladd Raine making some of the last moves before th...
me near the start
me near the start
Tim Deroehn on Social Outcast.
Tim Deroehn on Social Outcast.
Jay Conway- low on the route
Jay Conway- low on the route
Tom Armstrong, on a perfect route on a perfect day...
Tom Armstrong, on a perfect route on a perfect day...
me having fun up near the top
me having fun up near the top
Tim Deroehn at the rest on Social Outcast.
Tim Deroehn at the rest on Social Outcast.
Andrew heading up the aesthetic line of Social Out...
Andrew heading up the aesthetic line of Social Out...
me on social
me on social
Jakob finishing up a lap on the most popular outca...
Jakob finishing up a lap on the most popular outca...
otey, low down (and dirty)
otey, low down (and dirty)
Jakob making the last clip...
Jakob making the last clip...

Comments on Social Outcast Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2015
By Ladd
Administrator
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

No fear, the top out holds out right are huge, although the pinch for you left hand for the setup for the move is exactly where the in-place draw hangs (a little annoying, but more importantly it is painful if you forget to move your hand and hang at that draw)
By Pavel Muravyev
Jul 28, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

When I climbed the topout on this route (also my first lead 5.12 outside) I used a heelhook out right in addition to the pinch that you were talking about - it helps stabilize going for the last hold. Overall - the route is a classic!

P.S. People over 6' 0" - can reach the first jug from the ground
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 3, 2008

The first bolt has been replaced with a nice 1/2 inch glue-in.
By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If you're wicked gassed at the top look out right for a fatty heelhook- makes the move to the lip way more manageable
By S. Neoh
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Left hand finish is the original (I had asked Ted); less secure and harder. Think finger locks and small footholds (a bit strange after all that steep climbing!). For me, definitely 12a/b.
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Jul 18, 2011

Pretty good overall. Thought the finish to the anchors was a little weird but there probably isn't a better way for it to finish. The last bolt before the anchors can be annoying because the draw can be directly over the hold you want to be using.
By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The right hand finish is the established one
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

As popular as this is, I thought it was definitely overrated. The climbing is thuggy but not in an enjoyable way and there's so much chalk it's ridiculous. I can see it being a good project with the crux at the top and whatnot, but there are better .12a routes to be found for sure.
By Seth Cohen
From: Sheffield, MA
Aug 13, 2014

If you want an extra little challenge, try Restless Outcast Direct. Don't climb into the sit-down rest in the middle, and do the left-hand direct finish.
By Sigg
Oct 27, 2014

I was on this last week (10/18/14) and the nice pocket just before the 4th bolt was a bit loose. Not sure if its always been like this. Super fun climb though!
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Apr 13, 2015

There is a somewhat creaky jug on this thing this year, not sure if it has always been that way, or is just that way after the freeze/thaw cycle this year.
By chris magness
May 12, 2015

Restless Outcast Direct? Really? It's the same route, just skipping a rest and exiting on the original exit. Still easy 12.
By Julius Elinson
May 23, 2015

Careful cleaning this route. When my partner unclipped the bottom draw, I swung right into a tree. Use a ground anchor or clean it while climbing it on TR.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 26, 2015

"Careful cleaning this route. When my partner unclipped the bottom draw, I swung right into a tree. Use a ground anchor or clean it while climbing it on TR."

Yes, it always amazes me how many at Bonsai seemingly have no understanding of basic physics. Cleaning while seconding is the best way by far to do it.
By KCraig
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 8, 2015

Mark, while I agree that for many routes cleaning while seconding is very often the easiest (and sometimes safest) way to remove the draws, I don't think toproping this route should be recommended. If you take the right exit at the top (most common, I believe) a fall on top rope after unclipping the last draw may be quite ugly due to the location of the anchor (and the rope might even get stuck under the arÍte as it does when leading). TRing this particular route might not be the best idea, unless you know you need to take the "straight-up", alternate finish.

I, too, roll my eyes in disbelief at the number of times I have seen someone swing out to get raked to shreds by the large pine trees while trying to clean this or even Peer Pressure on the lower.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 8, 2015

I agree, the direct (left) finish is best when seconding.
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