trashy route that starts from the pedestal left of User Friendly.
the bolts and anchors are corroded and in dire need of replacement. please climb cautiously or go find another route.
added to the bolts/anchor replacement list.
Getting into the crux on Sobriety. Lower grade cli...
Angie finishing Sobriety. A climb worth keeping cl...
Oct 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
The bolts and anchors are bad, yes, but this route does not deserve the "really trashy" description in the guidebook. There are way way worse routes at Red Wing, with worse protection. The moves on it are actually kind of fun.
But just to be safe, I highly recommend anchoring the belayer to a tree far away from the base of the route.
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Spent a couple hours cleaning this route from top to bottom on Aug 10. So very dirty! Lots of loose rock came off, lots of dirt from above the climb was swept away.
Bolts are in decent shape. Anchors are rusty but functional. Set a TR on it for others with a cordellette - clove hitched the rusty hook and locking biner on the chain, used a sliding x and a locking biner to hold the rope. Worked well.
Get on this climb this season and give feedback. If the community likes the climb, I'll pony up for some new anchors.
Watched some solid 5.10 climbers struggle with the crux (above the 4th and final bolt). Maybe goes 5.10c based on crux?
Don't belay directly below climb. Dirt and debris still likely to come down, but after cleaning, very little did on our subsequent climbs.