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Cyclops Area
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Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 
Sobriety S 
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Sobriety 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nate Postma
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on Apr 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Anchors July 2013. Dirty route, but great movement...

Description 

  • RCM&W # 1, p.115


Location 

trashy route that starts from the pedestal left of User Friendly.


Protection 

the bolts and anchors are corroded and in dire need of replacement. please climb cautiously or go find another route.

added to the bolts/anchor replacement list.



Photos of Sobriety Slideshow Add Photo
Getting into the crux on Sobriety. Lower grade climbing to 4th bolt, then game on to the chains.
Getting into the crux on Sobriety. Lower grade cli...
Angie finishing Sobriety. A climb worth keeping clean? Worth new anchors? Climb it and let me know!
Angie finishing Sobriety. A climb worth keeping cl...
Comments on Sobriety Add Comment
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By ferrells
Oct 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The bolts and anchors are bad, yes, but this route does not deserve the "really trashy" description in the guidebook. There are way way worse routes at Red Wing, with worse protection. The moves on it are actually kind of fun.
But just to be safe, I highly recommend anchoring the belayer to a tree far away from the base of the route.

By SeanFoster
Aug 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Spent a couple hours cleaning this route from top to bottom on Aug 10. So very dirty! Lots of loose rock came off, lots of dirt from above the climb was swept away.

Bolts are in decent shape. Anchors are rusty but functional. Set a TR on it for others with a cordellette - clove hitched the rusty hook and locking biner on the chain, used a sliding x and a locking biner to hold the rope. Worked well.

Get on this climb this season and give feedback. If the community likes the climb, I'll pony up for some new anchors.

Watched some solid 5.10 climbers struggle with the crux (above the 4th and final bolt). Maybe goes 5.10c based on crux?

Don't belay directly below climb. Dirt and debris still likely to come down, but after cleaning, very little did on our subsequent climbs.