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Sobo
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bo Diddley 
Cruising for Bulgar 
Dreams Of Darkness 
Dreams Of Light 
Good Cleavage 
Marsupial 
Reckless Abandoned 
Seamed Like Fun. 
Sick and Wrong 
Sugar Glider 

Sobo 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 25, 2002

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Chance of a Thunderstorm
59° | 41°
Partly Cloudy
68° | 39°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
73° | 41°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 46°
Partly Cloudy
86° | 46°

BETA PHOTO: Left crack is Cruising For Bulgar, Rt-facing Dihed...

Description 

Sobo is another rare "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. There is a string of summits extending from Rincon to the north/north west, including Cadillac Crag, The Veil, Physical Crag (and Split Block), Diamond Head, and Sobo, which is the most remote and probably the least visited of these. My partner left a pair of sunglasses at the base of a route there in July of 1996. I picked them up in February of 2002. The most recent printed guide listed only 3 routes at Sobo, although there are now at least 6, with potential for a few more, particularly if someone want to do a few hair-raisers. Top-roping at Sobo would be difficult. 3 of the 6 known climbs are stellar crack single-pitches, and would have climbers cued up like Calypso if they were close to the road; they are worthy of a hike in for a day of climbing. Much like the other crags in this summit chain, it does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. The setting is a nice, and may be the best place to go if you fear crowds in Eldo.

From the Eldorado Trail, Sobo looks like a large Triangle, just West Diamond Head, and East of the summit cliff-band of South Boulder Peak. Sobo faces predominantly South, and gathers light all day. The climbs are mostly pure crack, such as Good Cleavage, Cruising For Bulgar, and Dreams Of Light, the two moderate routes, Marsupial and Sugar Glider, involve some runout face climbing. All 4 of the 6 known routes on this rock would be or are starred routes in the local guidebooks, but none see much traffic.

Descent: To descend after climbing, scramble and walk left off of the top around a corner to the northwest, and then down to a tree with a red sling. Rap 50' from the sling to the ground and then walk back among the corner to your packs. This is an easy descent and should take about 5 minutes. Some down-climbing could be eliminated with another sling around the uppermost tree.


Getting There 

From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you are directly below Diamond Head, then scramble uphill over talus to reach the base of Diamond Head, then traverse West to Sobo. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) down from Diamond Head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sobo:
Dreams Of Darkness   5.9 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Good Cleavage   5.9     Trad   
Dreams Of Light   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Cruising for Bulgar   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Sick and Wrong   5.10d R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   
Reckless Abandoned   5.11 X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Bo Diddley   5.11c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sobo

Featured Route For Sobo
Steve Levin susses out the roof on'Sick and Wrong' (5.10c?) on SOBO, in Eldo. There is a good undercling to his right under the roof and a huge jug around the corner and right. The climb goes upward and gradually back left from those holds.

Sick and Wrong 5.10d R  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Sobo
On Sobo, start as for Cruising For Bulgar. About 45' up the route, below a small roof, place a few #4 Friends and move right under the roof by a seam, pulling an undercling on the right under the roof. Pull up onto the face/arete above on a good jug and climb the blunt arete for as long as you can stomach, passing a potential 1.5" TCU or small tricam placement after a few meters, just before the angle of the rock relaxes to be more slabby. Continue up on shallow slopers and nubs before m...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Sobo Slideshow Add Photo
SoBo--the southern prow, where most of the routes are.

BETA PHOTO: SoBo--the southern prow, where most of the routes ...

SoBo as viewed from the west.

BETA PHOTO: SoBo as viewed from the west.

SoBo as viewed from the east.  Chaos Canyon is below the butress, filled with house-sized boulders.

BETA PHOTO: SoBo as viewed from the east. Chaos Canyon is bel...

Rincon Wall up to Sobo Buttress, Land of Plenty.

Rincon Wall up to Sobo Buttress, Land of Plenty.

Land of Plenty Boulders.

Land of Plenty Boulders.


Comments on Sobo Add Comment
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By Kirk Petersen
Jan 31, 2009

SoBo Buttress is now subject to the birdie closure for Shadow Canyon, lasting from February 1st through July 31st. According to a January 2009 city press release: "This year's closure includes climbing areas west of the Shadow Canyon closure for the first time."